Rough idle after valve adjustment

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  • SpecM
    R3V Elite
    • Oct 2005
    • 4531

    #16
    yep, that was it!

    #2 and 3 exhaust valves were too tight (like .005-006in), I guess I goofed yesterday

    I set them all to .008in cold, that seems to work for me. No lumpy idle and still runs like a scalded dog (as much as a stock m20 can)
    1989 cirrisblau-metallic 325i

    Comment

    • nando
      Moderator
      • Nov 2003
      • 34827

      #17
      Originally posted by Brandon12V
      wait wait... Nando you just blew my fuckin mind... I thought the purpose behind a larger gap when hot was due to accuracy? Adjustment on a cold motor will always be more accurate than on a hot motor. Isn't this why Porsche only reccomends to adjust valves cold? I'm so confused now.. I really want to know the reasoning behind this.
      nope! The gap definitely gets larger.

      Either way is just as accurate. I like setting mine hot, because that's actually what they are going to be at with a running engine. It's not usually recommended because it's harder and you have to be fast. It's also likely you'll burn your hands. lol
      Build thread

      Bimmerlabs

      Comment

      • Brandon12V
        E30 Fanatic
        • Feb 2008
        • 1318

        #18
        Originally posted by nando
        It's also likely you'll burn your hands. lol
        Main reason I do mine cold.

        Originally posted by Ryan...
        It now emits a beautiful blue-ish yellow/green smoke from the exhaust?? No idea what would cause that color, but I assume its good.

        Comment

        • Cabriolet
          R3V OG
          • Apr 2010
          • 9620

          #19
          to do the timing hot the job has to be done very fast. and chances are 99% you will be burned. but if you don't do it fast enough when hot the valves will be too loose and making the taping noise. I also found that if I did a valve job when the weather was near <40F they came out a bit too tight.
          Much wow
          I hate 4 doors

          Comment

          • nando
            Moderator
            • Nov 2003
            • 34827

            #20
            I wear leather gloves. It's hot but I try not to touch anything but my feeler gauge, 10mm wrench, and spring loaded eccentric tool..
            Build thread

            Bimmerlabs

            Comment

            • TimR
              Banned
              • Mar 2008
              • 549

              #21
              So, do you set them with the Bentley Book method or back of the cam?? I prefer hot on an older engine with 150K + miles

              Comment

              • nando
                Moderator
                • Nov 2003
                • 34827

                #22
                I do it under the eccentric by my head isn't old, I also do it hot.
                Build thread

                Bimmerlabs

                Comment

                • bastianshaw
                  R3VLimited
                  • Jan 2007
                  • 2210

                  #23
                  Originally posted by nando
                  a slightly tighter valve won't cause issues, but an overtightened valve definitely will. Especially if it runs like ass when cold, and then smooths out a little when warmed up.
                  what waffleswaffleswaffles this mean? like if the eccentric nut is too tight?

                  Comment

                  • nando
                    Moderator
                    • Nov 2003
                    • 34827

                    #24
                    no. the eccentric being too close to the valve. you can actually slightly open the valve if you pull too hard on the eccentric while you tighten it down. that makes it run like crap.

                    I used the special tool last time - works perfectly, no guesswork.
                    Build thread

                    Bimmerlabs

                    Comment

                    • bastianshaw
                      R3VLimited
                      • Jan 2007
                      • 2210

                      #25
                      Originally posted by nando
                      no. the eccentric being too close to the valve. you can actually slightly open the valve if you pull too hard on the eccentric while you tighten it down. that makes it run like crap.

                      I used the special tool last time - works perfectly, no guesswork.
                      where can i get this tool

                      Comment

                      • richardb
                        R3VLimited
                        • Mar 2009
                        • 2121

                        #26
                        Old topic here but thought I'd drop this video for those who are searching details on adjustment:

                        Transaction Feedback!

                        Comment

                        • estoguy
                          E30 Enthusiast
                          • May 2013
                          • 1087

                          #27
                          Something else that might help with your idle... what's your plug gap? When I first got my E30, it had a rough idle and a DIY article on the old E30World site recommended setting the sparkplug gap to the upper end the spec to help even out the idle. Did that, and things were much better. Maybe it'll help you.

                          I use NGK ZGR5As, and I leave the gap where it is when they come out of the box, which is the upper end of the spec... never had problems with my idle since.
                          Estoguy
                          1986 BMW 325, Alpenweiss ~ "Elsa"

                          Need a photographer, come visit my site: http://estoguy.wix.com/unique-perspectives

                          Comment

                          • digger
                            R3V Elite
                            • Nov 2005
                            • 5928

                            #28
                            after 5 years i hope he got his idle sorted...haha
                            89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                            new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                            Comment

                            • digger
                              R3V Elite
                              • Nov 2005
                              • 5928

                              #29
                              When you set the valves tight like 0.15 mm (0.06") you end up with rough idle for the following reasons:

                              -Seat to seat duration increase 16 degrees on stock cam.
                              -25% bigger overlap triangle area.

                              This is why idle degrades.

                              The actual profile at higher lifts barely changes e.g. the 1 mm net lift duration only gets 2-3* larger with the smaller clearance.

                              Peak Lift is 0.1 mm higher so the actual area under the valve lift curve doesn't change much in the areas where the piston is moving fast.

                              if you set them loose like 0.35mm then the take up velocity is 4x as high (1600mm/s vs 350mm/s at 7000rpm) so the impact energy is 16X larger which is not good for rocker and valve train life plus they will get very noisy. if you set the clearances a little on the small side you are being more sympathetic to the rockers

                              Note that some catcams cams are specced to use 0.15mm clearance
                              Last edited by digger; 07-10-2016, 02:47 PM.
                              89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                              new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                              Comment

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