help hard start but wont stay running

[mrgetbig50]

here is the video of exactly what is happening:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_MDZKf1Nao

so the engine is one of those 327 conversion stroker deals..the harness is a late model harness

everything is hooked up and the car will start but not stay on

when i crank it starts and then shuts off

when i crank it starts and when i open the throttle it immediately dies

any ideas??? cuz i honestly feel like this right now :hitler:

[hurttech]

Would it matter if hes using an AFM off of a 325es vs a 325i? I'm thinking its a fuel issue myself.

[mrgetbig50]

theres these three plugs that were connected on the old harness but there werent any jacks on the new harness to connect them too..i believe these three have something to do wit the tach as well as the mpg gauge?? not too sure but would this have anything to do with the situation?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/e30_adventures/5995961973/in/photostream

[Zba]

That video definitely sounds like you have no fuel pressure. Do you have a pressure gauge? At least start by checking the fuses.

[Kershaw]

the eta afm is smaller than an i afm. or is it just the air box?

[mrgetbig50]

dont know but could i have gotten the feed and return lines for fuel mixed up?

[Zba]

It is definitely a possibility. Pull both lines off and put them in a container to catch the fuel while you crank. Do you have a healthy stream from one of the lines? Have you checked for power and ground at the fuel pump or the fuse yet?

[hurttech]

It's the AFM, fyi 325es afms are different than i's

[mrgetbig50]

yes they are.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZrOO3lkWWqU

:yawn:

[7pilot]

1, If it is a 2 fuel pump car, I would suspect a dead main pump.
2, Check for a Massive air leak , specifically a hard to see crack in the flex elbow pipe that seals when the engine is off, but opens when the engine starts and the block rolls over on to the right side under the torque.
3, Check the main and fuel pump relays for correct operation.
Check for correctly connected fuel lines.
4, Make sure you have a good AFM.

m

[hurttech]

Hey Andrew, check out this thread.

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=200146&highlight=high+idle

[hurttech]

Also heres a quote from Jlevie on how to bleed the coolant system. This guy basically taught me how to put E30's together over R3v haha.

A better way to do this is to disconnect the small tub that runs from the reservoir to the radiator from the reservoir. Fill the reservoir with coolant and put the cap on. With the front of the car at least one 1' higher than the rear apply pressure to that tubing (blow into it) until coolant is flowing from the bleed screw and and the top of the radiator. It is important to have the front end of the car up in the air so that the radiator and bleed screw are the highest points.



Note that this won't clear ar from the heater core. To accomplish that you have to follow the normal bleed procedure (see below).



1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than

the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point

on the engine and facilitate removal of air.



2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of

the bleed.



3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max

temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still

in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats

up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it

warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top

up the coolant as necessary.



4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500 for a few seconds

several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At

this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which

indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to

repeat this a few times to get all the air out.



5) Drive the car a bit, allow it to cool back down, and recheck the

bleed for air. Over the next few days you may get very small amounts (a

few bubbles) of air out of the bleed screw.

[mrgetbig50]

thx for everything everybody..but a new problem has showed up... everything covered here :(

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=216991