Well guys. Here's the spiel.
89 325i. M20. No overheats. No problems. Runs great except for that the car has been giving me a high RPM misfire. Around 5300 ish, but not always in that area. Only "Usually"
Sometimes it won't do it at all.
Some days it will do it every time.
Only happens under load.
Temperature does not seem to be a factor.
It's pretty much like the motor is hitting a brick wall. It stops accelerating (Much like an ignition cut, or those that know. Boost cut where it falls flat on it's face), and then I can keep going on my merry way. If I try to stay through it, it turns into a bucking bronco and It's probably taken 3 years off my transmissions life from the two times I tried it.
Things that are NEW, Since the problem has manifested.
Miller MAF conversion and war chip. My AFM was pretty borked, in cold it would stick. This did NOT solve it. Currently running a bog standard miller tune on my WAR chip. So this has been on 2 different chips now.
02 sensor. Replaced last year
Cap and rotor. Look great. Replaced them last year, along with plugs.
Water pump, Timing belt, tensioner, and tensioner spring. Replaced last feb
Engine ground wire. Replaced 2 weeks ago.
Battery ground wire. Replaced 1 year ago.
Fuel filter. Did it Just in case a couple months ago.
I have NOT replaced my wires. as this isn't symptomatic of it. It's not one or to cylinders dropping. It's all of them. At once. Like a bowling ball hitting the ground, with your foot inbetween.
Couple weeks ago, it pulled a 1261 for fuel pump relay. I replaced the relay, and fuse #9 for shits and grins. Nothing changed.
Couple days ago the check engine light came on. 1251. Perfect. This explains NOTHING to the misfire and complete shutoff of the motor. All this explains to me as that it's no longer running in batch fire...
I looked at the harness plug. No corrosion. Zip, zilch, nada. Probably a bad injector. Get some of those on the way. Car idles and drives perfect when not hooning on it.. NO loss of MPG's (24ish city, 27 highway)
I've looked at the CPS. It tests out A-OK at 527 ohms. NO rubbing, fraying, or anything to lead me to it being a problem. And it is properly gapped to the trigger wheel.
Valve adjustment? Did it. That's just fine.
No vacuum leaks.
TPS? Fine and dandy. Stomp test even works.
Coil tests out okay.
Cat's not an issue. It doesn't exist. Food grade stainless steel single pipe from the stainless headers to the tail.
Here's a video where you can see it. As I approach it the CEL light comes on, Power goes away completely. CEL turns off. Like nothing ever happened. That pop that you hear when I lunge forward because of the loss of power is fire coming out of my tailpipe. Good old fashioned backfire.
I'm at a loss. There's nothing to explain exactly what's going on. And at this point I'm going to end up throwing money/parts at it with no real positive leads. So some insight is very welcome.
Could it possibly be running lean and the ECU goes into a "FFFFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU" moment? Killing ignition? Seems a bit too intuitive for M1.3, and not throwing a permanent 1222
Shaky camera work warning. I'm sorry.
89 325i. M20. No overheats. No problems. Runs great except for that the car has been giving me a high RPM misfire. Around 5300 ish, but not always in that area. Only "Usually"
Sometimes it won't do it at all.
Some days it will do it every time.
Only happens under load.
Temperature does not seem to be a factor.
It's pretty much like the motor is hitting a brick wall. It stops accelerating (Much like an ignition cut, or those that know. Boost cut where it falls flat on it's face), and then I can keep going on my merry way. If I try to stay through it, it turns into a bucking bronco and It's probably taken 3 years off my transmissions life from the two times I tried it.
Things that are NEW, Since the problem has manifested.
Miller MAF conversion and war chip. My AFM was pretty borked, in cold it would stick. This did NOT solve it. Currently running a bog standard miller tune on my WAR chip. So this has been on 2 different chips now.
02 sensor. Replaced last year
Cap and rotor. Look great. Replaced them last year, along with plugs.
Water pump, Timing belt, tensioner, and tensioner spring. Replaced last feb
Engine ground wire. Replaced 2 weeks ago.
Battery ground wire. Replaced 1 year ago.
Fuel filter. Did it Just in case a couple months ago.
I have NOT replaced my wires. as this isn't symptomatic of it. It's not one or to cylinders dropping. It's all of them. At once. Like a bowling ball hitting the ground, with your foot inbetween.
Couple weeks ago, it pulled a 1261 for fuel pump relay. I replaced the relay, and fuse #9 for shits and grins. Nothing changed.
Couple days ago the check engine light came on. 1251. Perfect. This explains NOTHING to the misfire and complete shutoff of the motor. All this explains to me as that it's no longer running in batch fire...
I looked at the harness plug. No corrosion. Zip, zilch, nada. Probably a bad injector. Get some of those on the way. Car idles and drives perfect when not hooning on it.. NO loss of MPG's (24ish city, 27 highway)
I've looked at the CPS. It tests out A-OK at 527 ohms. NO rubbing, fraying, or anything to lead me to it being a problem. And it is properly gapped to the trigger wheel.
Valve adjustment? Did it. That's just fine.
No vacuum leaks.
TPS? Fine and dandy. Stomp test even works.
Coil tests out okay.
Cat's not an issue. It doesn't exist. Food grade stainless steel single pipe from the stainless headers to the tail.
Here's a video where you can see it. As I approach it the CEL light comes on, Power goes away completely. CEL turns off. Like nothing ever happened. That pop that you hear when I lunge forward because of the loss of power is fire coming out of my tailpipe. Good old fashioned backfire.
I'm at a loss. There's nothing to explain exactly what's going on. And at this point I'm going to end up throwing money/parts at it with no real positive leads. So some insight is very welcome.
Could it possibly be running lean and the ECU goes into a "FFFFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU" moment? Killing ignition? Seems a bit too intuitive for M1.3, and not throwing a permanent 1222
Shaky camera work warning. I'm sorry.
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