Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

M20 Baffles

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    M20 Baffles

    I did a search already.....not much info to answer my question. Does any one have experience (or know of someone) with either the Ireland Engineering or VAC Motorsports oil pan baffles for the M20B25? I'm in the process of refreshing a lower mileage M20B25 for install and I want to take advantage of this opportunity to address some of the known weaknesses. The IE part is priced at $45 and the VAC is $199....quite a price difference.

    Are there any other alternatives out there besides these two and what's the good/bad/ugly on them? TIA.

    Jon
    Rides...
    1991 325i - sold :(
    2004 2WD Frontier King Cab

    RIP #17 Jules Bianchi

    #2
    good question, im pondering the same things right now.


    Originally posted by nwvb bmw
    That guy is going to lock you in his basement and make you ware a little pirate costume.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Jon325i View Post
      I did a search already.....not much info to answer my question. Does any one have experience (or know of someone) with either the Ireland Engineering or VAC Motorsports oil pan baffles for the M20B25? I'm in the process of refreshing a lower mileage M20B25 for install and I want to take advantage of this opportunity to address some of the known weaknesses. The IE part is priced at $45 and the VAC is $199....quite a price difference.

      Are there any other alternatives out there besides these two and what's the good/bad/ugly on them? TIA.

      Jon
      This ?
      The TC Motorsports oil pan baffle
      here is a pic of it in this thread. http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=79917
      TC Motorsports is an outfit near Seattle.
      My CA legal M60 swap

      The happening in our garage

      Comment


        #4
        Baffle+crank scraper=win.

        The spec e30's swear by scrapers to keep oil pressure up during hard corners.
        john@m20guru.com
        Links:
        Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

        Comment


          #5
          www.crank-scrapers.com has a lot of good information.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver View Post
            www.crank-scrapers.com has a lot of good information.
            Yup. My shop has an account with them, they are actually here in FL. Their m20 Teflon scraper is one of the best I have seen on any engine.
            john@m20guru.com
            Links:
            Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

            Comment


              #7
              The absolute best crank scraper is an IJ. When properly fitted to the crank the plain steel part is equal to the teflon lined variety. If you really want to do it right, you need to couple the IJ part with a Metric Mechanic or Paul Poore baffled oil pan.
              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by jlevie View Post
                The absolute best crank scraper is an IJ. When properly fitted to the crank the plain steel part is equal to the teflon lined variety. If you really want to do it right, you need to couple the IJ part with a Metric Mechanic or Paul Poore baffled oil pan.
                Care to elaborate? The steel scraper cannot possibly make safe contact with the rotating assembly like the Teflon counterpart can. Even after wear the Teflon halves the clearance tolerances of a steel scraper at it's max recommendation. Sure the steel version is cheaper, but how can it be equal in performance?
                john@m20guru.com
                Links:
                Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

                Comment


                  #9
                  Hey ForcedFirebird will there M20 scrapers fit a 2.8??
                  I'm in the middle of a build and would like to get one.. hint hint nug nug wink wink..
                  https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar...re-irs.356333/

                  This Forum is built on love, and powered by Sexual Tension!

                  When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I run the VAC baffle on my M20. It is a track car and the pan has been on for two seasons. I was having very low oil pressure in left hand sweepers prior to the install. I don't think the pressure has dropped below 25psi since. The "idiot" light was coming on prior to doing the baffle (the factory setting for the light is 7psi). I don't think you need the scraper with a baffled pan. One nice thing to do is delete the oil level sender in the pan and free up that extra capacity that can dump on to the pickup in left handers.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
                      Care to elaborate? The steel scraper cannot possibly make safe contact with the rotating assembly like the Teflon counterpart can. Even after wear the Teflon halves the clearance tolerances of a steel scraper at it's max recommendation. Sure the steel version is cheaper, but how can it be equal in performance?
                      I too am curious. On a head to head basis the teflon scraper is the way to go if you have the money. The point is the same with the VAC baffle.

                      The IE baffle and crank scraper both do a good job at a lower price point (as they were intended).

                      Jon - Have a look at post #48 here http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...=211891&page=4
                      ADAMS Autosport

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
                        Care to elaborate? The steel scraper cannot possibly make safe contact with the rotating assembly like the Teflon counterpart can. Even after wear the Teflon halves the clearance tolerances of a steel scraper at it's max recommendation. Sure the steel version is cheaper, but how can it be equal in performance?
                        Properly fitted, the clearances of a steel scraper will be very close to where a teflon lined scraper will wind up after use. So there is very little long term advantage to the teflon variety. The advantage of the teflon scraper is ease of installation and somewhat better initial operation. But after a couple of years of racing I see about the same clearance on engine tear down.
                        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I ran a baffle only....as used by the pro 3 guys...


                          Very simple, I bolted mine in...it worked perfectly. The lh'er at LRP was putting me below 7 lbs...after the baffle= 25lbs min.....based on vdo aux op gauge.

                          I didn't see the need for both scraper and baffle....
                          I love sitting down and just driving!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            You can be successful with just a baffle, but a scraper helps to keep oil down in the pan. Which is a good thing and helps the baffles work better. I run an IJ crank scraper and a Paul Poore extended and baffled pan. I have data logging of oil pressure and have never seen a worrisome drop in pressure in any race conditions.
                            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by jlevie View Post
                              Properly fitted, the clearances of a steel scraper will be very close to where a teflon lined scraper will wind up after use. So there is very little long term advantage to the teflon variety. The advantage of the teflon scraper is ease of installation and somewhat better initial operation. But after a couple of years of racing I see about the same clearance on engine tear down.
                              You have measured the difference? The Teflon is supposed to have less than .005" clearance after bedding and can safely make contact with the rotating parts. Are you really able to get that close with a steel version? That's barely more than the thickness of typing paper.

                              Originally posted by JRKOUPE View Post
                              I ran a baffle only....as used by the pro 3 guys...


                              Very simple, I bolted mine in...it worked perfectly. The lh'er at LRP was putting me below 7 lbs...after the baffle= 25lbs min.....based on vdo aux op gauge.

                              I didn't see the need for both scraper and baffle....
                              Correct, it will keep your oil pressure up, but cavitation above the baffle will still keep excess oil on and around the crank. On the dyno, it's proven that a scraper will increase power, it lightens the rotating assy. Couple that information with track conditions and there's more power we don;t know about since it would be almost impossible to replicate a hard corner on a dyno.
                              john@m20guru.com
                              Links:
                              Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X