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    #16
    I use penzoil. The weight tho depends on the season.10w30 i think im running right now but i change weights based on outside temp. The handbook that came with the car has a nice little pic of a thermometer that goes from 0-120 degrees i think.give or take, im guessing the range, but anyway it shows u which weight is recommended based on outside temps. I found that most helpful cause a lot of ppl have different opinions on this. I dont know what would happen but i wouldnt want 20w50 if its snowing.

    When i first got my E30 in april i was told not to run synthetic in my M20..i was told it was not good for it cause its not made to run synthetic. Any thoughts on synthetic? just curious
    m20 is plenty. im simply a drifter.
    build thread -- http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=206510

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      #17
      Red line 5w40 all year .
      sigpic

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        #18
        The M10 gets Rotella 15w40. Lots of zinc that our old engines love, although I probably should be using the 20w50.
        1985 M10b18. 70maybewhpoffury. Over engineered S50b30 murica BBQ swap in progress.

        Originally posted by DEV0 E30
        You'd chugg this butt. I know you would. Ain't gotta' lie to kick it brostantinople.

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          #19
          Wow News To Me

          My first Beamer. I am running castro gtx 10w30. Not a fan on synthetic on older cars.

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            #20
            Originally posted by Chruby99 View Post
            My first Beamer. I am running castro gtx 10w30. Not a fan on synthetic on older cars.
            My first thoughts were to never run synthetic on it. Synthetic wasnt put in em in the 80's so i didnt think i should now. In my 98 vr6 jetta, I did run synthetic tho. It enjoyed it
            Nice thread OP
            m20 is plenty. im simply a drifter.
            build thread -- http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=206510

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              #21
              Gastrol GTX High Mileage 20w-50..

              thats the green bottle....

              does wonders....
              1989 325i SETA stroker [delphin] R3V'd 8/31/2011
              1989 325ix [zinnoberrot] $OLD
              1970 2002 [Nevada]

              Originally posted by Herr Faust Schinken
              guy must have slid into something that doesn't look like a car vs car hit
              Originally posted by ak-
              Must of slid into Rob

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                #22
                Originally posted by ROLLingKING View Post
                I use penzoil. The weight tho depends on the season.10w30 i think im running right now but i change weights based on outside temp. The handbook that came with the car has a nice little pic of a thermometer that goes from 0-120 degrees i think.give or take, im guessing the range, but anyway it shows u which weight is recommended based on outside temps. I found that most helpful cause a lot of ppl have different opinions on this. I dont know what would happen but i wouldnt want 20w50 if its snowing.

                When i first got my E30 in april i was told not to run synthetic in my M20..i was told it was not good for it cause its not made to run synthetic. Any thoughts on synthetic? just curious
                At first I was told the same thing, but with 264k miles extra protection can't hurt. Standard high milage oil does just fine but I just prefer the added assurance
                sigpic
                Justin Angelli
                1985 325e Gazellenbiege

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                  #23
                  Castrol High Mileage 20-50. Supposedly has additives to increase gasket seal longevity and prevents oil leaks.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by 85e325 View Post
                    At first I was told the same thing, but with 264k miles extra protection can't hurt. Standard high milage oil does just fine but I just prefer the added assurance
                    But it was made in the 80's. Just cause its synthetic doesnt mean extra protection. Am i right anyone?
                    I dont think in 1991 everyone switched to synthetic. Its just more "popular" now and ppl think it will make things run better. It was explained to me that it makes things too slippery and can allow oil to get through seals or past piston rings. Plus in all my old reciepts i neversaw synthetic
                    But hey, it could just be prefence. Im not trying to start a debate that goes nowhere so if someone with ACTUAL oil knowledge could settle this thatd be great. Ive always wanted to have a definitive answer or an answer with facts so i could justify using the regy. other than a hunch
                    m20 is plenty. im simply a drifter.
                    build thread -- http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=206510

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                      #25
                      VR1 20W-50 is darn near cheap these days. You can usually find it for $5 a quart. For an everyday car I'd just dump napa brand or good ole white jug valvoline oil in it and go on with my day. I'm still skeptical about the diesel oil trend, although a jug of rotella is way cheap, and you can even get it in 5gal pails in normal places like autozone. Brings per quart cost down into the $3 range.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by ROLLingKING View Post
                        But it was made in the 80's. Just cause its synthetic doesnt mean extra protection. Am i right anyone?
                        I dont think in 1991 everyone switched to synthetic. Its just more "popular" now and ppl think it will make things run better. It was explained to me that it makes things too slippery and can allow oil to get through seals or past piston rings. Plus in all my old reciepts i neversaw synthetic
                        But hey, it could just be prefence. Im not trying to start a debate that goes nowhere so if someone with ACTUAL oil knowledge could settle this thatd be great. Ive always wanted to have a definitive answer or an answer with facts so i could justify using the regy. other than a hunch
                        The main reason way people like to switch to sythetic is just simply the added protection. Yes synthetic creates less friction, which in extreme cases create cooler engine temperatures and even very slight power gains.
                        With the weight of oil that our cars take(for the most part 20w50), its so thick the slight change in vescosity between conventional and sythetic shouldn't make your current leaks larger or make any new leaks appear. However for the time being, I'm running a blend of conventional and sythetic oils simply because I really cant find any affordable full sythetic up here
                        sigpic
                        Justin Angelli
                        1985 325e Gazellenbiege

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                          #27
                          What's the deal with the high mileage versions? I guess they have chemicals that magicaly breakdown the seal material and cause it to swell somehow slowing leaks. What else are they purported to do and how? Anyone know how this actually works and if these are used long term will they actually cause the seal material to breakdown any faster than it already has? The high mileage name sounds enticing for obvious reasons but what is the actual science behind the marketing?
                          Never argue with stupid people, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience. -Mark Twain

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                            #28
                            I run Valvoline VR1 in my S14's and I use Shell Rotella in S5X engines.
                            https://www.facebook.com/BentOverRacing

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                              #29
                              gulf 10w60 racing, motul 300v 15w50, or mobil 1 15w50 all SYN's

                              I run these in my M20 and SR

                              all are great oils, ive heard great things about the Rotella aswell
                              my build here ---> http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...ht=lemans+blue

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                                #30
                                kendall 15/40 year round. thick enough for the summer and thin enough for the winter.
                                sigpic

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