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    new head gasket leaking coolant!

    so i replaced my head gasket about 2k miles ago. The coolant light light up and surely my coolant was low. not very low, about less than 2QT or about 1 liter.

    anyway i checked hoses and every possible culprit, and found out my new head gasket is seeping out coolant all the way around the block. there is white water marks around the whole block.

    i did not resurface the head after i replaced the gasket. also i replaced the gasket as per bentley instructions. i used peak pre diluted coolant, not the 50/50. the car has not over heated and it has not lost a substantial amount of coolant either.

    I've heard you must re-torque the head bolts after so many miles. I'm mainly looking for input. idk what I'm doing wrong and any assistance would help.

    the car is a 325i m20b25

    -sam
    Last edited by Ninz30; 12-28-2011, 11:30 AM.
    My 1991 325i Cabrio Build

    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=227529

    #2
    It is stupid not to resurface the head before installing. Even if the head is in good condition, the surface warps and is no longer perfectly flat. Don't try to re-torque the head bolts as they are TTY and are only good once. Pull the head off and get it resurfaced and get a new head gasket and bolts and try it again. Also make sure to clean deck surface of the block. I always use a premium sharpening stone to make the surface true.
    1988 E30 335i - 1987 E30 327i - 1987 E30 327iS Pickup - 1973 2002 Project

    Visit www.BimmerHeads.com for all of your 12 valve needs!

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      #3
      Originally posted by Myster-e View Post
      It is stupid not to resurface the head before installing. Even if the head is in good condition, the surface warps and is no longer perfectly flat. Don't try to re-torque the head bolts as they are TTY and are only good once. Pull the head off and get it resurfaced and get a new head gasket and bolts and try it again. Also make sure to clean deck surface of the block. I always use a premium sharpening stone to make the surface true.
      i agree it was stupid not to resurface the head, but the head looked very good so i just didn't bother. stupid mistake. and thanks i will try the sharpening stone.
      My 1991 325i Cabrio Build

      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=227529

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        #4
        I've yet to see a used head, even when the head gasket had not failed, that didn't have enough warp to justify a minimum surfacing cut. A failed head gasket means that the head must be checked for warp and cracks and if not cracked it will have to be surfaced.

        Head bolts on an M20 engine are torque to yield bolts. New bolts must be used each time and if properly installed they will clamp the head in place. They cannot be re-torqued.

        Pull the head and take to a shop. You will need a new head gasket set and you will need new head bolts.
        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by jlevie View Post
          I've yet to see a used head, even when the head gasket had not failed, that didn't have enough warp to justify a minimum surfacing cut. A failed head gasket means that the head must be checked for warp and cracks and if not cracked it will have to be surfaced.

          Head bolts on an M20 engine are torque to yield bolts. New bolts must be used each time and if properly installed they will clamp the head in place. They cannot be re-torqued.

          Pull the head and take to a shop. You will need a new head gasket set and you will need new head bolts.
          thanks. i did my best not to cut corners on this car, but i evidently cut a big one with the head.

          now i did the timing and replaced all other belts. would it be smart to replace the timing belt again along with the other belts? I'm also a bit strapped on cash, i don't want to drive the car if its condition will worsen, nevertheless it is my DD. how long will i get away with driving it like this if its not overheating or not losing a substantial amount of coolant?

          thanks for all your input everyone
          My 1991 325i Cabrio Build

          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=227529

          Comment


            #6
            You can reuse the timing belt and other belts if they are only a couple thousand miles old.
            1988 E30 335i - 1987 E30 327i - 1987 E30 327iS Pickup - 1973 2002 Project

            Visit www.BimmerHeads.com for all of your 12 valve needs!

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Ninz30 View Post
              thanks. i did my best not to cut corners on this car, but i evidently cut a big one with the head.

              now i did the timing and replaced all other belts. would it be smart to replace the timing belt again along with the other belts? I'm also a bit strapped on cash, i don't want to drive the car if its condition will worsen, nevertheless it is my DD. how long will i get away with driving it like this if its not overheating or not losing a substantial amount of coolant?
              As long as the leak is only seepage and you religiously check coolant level, like each time you start the car, there will be no problems from driving the car. But if the leak gets worse, or if you start to see coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant, or it starts to run hot, quit driving the car until it is repaired.

              While you might be able to successfully reuse the timing belt and tensioner, that is dangerous and false economy. A timing belt kit is ~$30. It will cost far more if the belt breaks. Use a new belt and tensioner.
              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

              Comment


                #8
                This sucks but let it be a lesson. Decking the head may sound unnecessary but its very common for machine shops to plane the the head or block to make sure they are absolutely true and you won't have to do the job twice.
                "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

                85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
                88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
                89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
                91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by jlevie View Post
                  As long as the leak is only seepage and you religiously check coolant level, like each time you start the car, there will be no problems from driving the car. But if the leak gets worse, or if you start to see coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant, or it starts to run hot, quit driving the car until it is repaired.

                  While you might be able to successfully reuse the timing belt and tensioner, that is dangerous and false economy. A timing belt kit is ~$30. It will cost far more if the belt breaks. Use a new belt and tensioner.
                  +1 thanks man.
                  My 1991 325i Cabrio Build

                  http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=227529

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by reelizmpro View Post
                    This sucks but let it be a lesson. Decking the head may sound unnecessary but its very common for machine shops to plane the the head or block to make sure they are absolutely true and you won't have to do the job twice.
                    I know man its suck balls. Lesson learned though.
                    My 1991 325i Cabrio Build

                    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=227529

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                      #11
                      that sucks but now you know for next time
                      95 7.1L 16V E36 M3
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                        #12
                        I just did the same thing. Real expensive mistake.

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                          #13
                          Well this thread just changed my opinion to skip the resurface on my new motor. Out of curiosity what are the costs involved in getting a head surfaced, and potentially getting new valve seals/guides on a b25
                          1990 332i, 4 door
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                            #14
                            Every time a headgasket is being done, the head should be resurfaced. PERIOD. What's wrong with you people?

                            I agree with Myster-e, there is no issue with reusing the timing belt and tensioner in your case since they're almost new.
                            BimmerHeads
                            Classic BMW Specialists
                            Santa Clarita, CA

                            www.BimmerHeads.com

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                              #15
                              what kinda HG did you use?

                              I'mma just leave this here....

                              If it's got tits or tires, it's gonna cost ya!

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