Any one used a Valve keeper removal tool?

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  • nando
    replied
    Originally posted by jlevie
    You won't get the cam and rocker shafts out that easily. You can get them out by doing everything that you'd do to pull the engine/transmission and lifting the assembly well up. Since you won't be able to get to the rear of the head to drive out the rocker shafts you will probably damage them and have to replace them (~$50 ea).

    It would be lots easier to just pull the head, which would be an opportunity to have the valves ground, guides checked and possibly replaced, and the inevitable warp removed by a light surfacing cut.
    I've said this a lot of times, but you really shouldn't have to drive out rocker shafts - they are not an interference fit. But I suppose many M20s have warped heads, bent parts, and tons of gunk built up.

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  • MR 325
    replied
    Originally posted by AlphaE
    The problem is this is my daily driver. I can't have it down for very long. So I was hopin this would work. Any ideas on gettin rocker arm shafts out w/o pullin the head?
    Originally posted by AlphaE
    bump
    Are you serious? It can all be done in a day, or a weekend.

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  • The Humjet
    replied
    Save yourself money on the tool and rent a car instead. Pull off the head at home by yourself and drop it off the a machine shop. You'll have it done in a week 2 weeks max.

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  • jlevie
    replied
    Originally posted by AlphaE
    The problem is this is my daily driver. I can't have it down for very long. So I was hopin this would work. Any ideas on gettin rocker arm shafts out w/o pullin the head?
    I know folks with race cars that have drilled holes in the firewall to allow the rocker shafts to be driven back into the car. That isn't an option on a daily driver. The only other way I know of is to do what I suggested earlier and lift the engine.

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  • AlphaE
    replied
    bump

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  • AlphaE
    replied
    The problem is this is my daily driver. I can't have it down for very long. So I was hopin this would work. Any ideas on gettin rocker arm shafts out w/o pullin the head?

    Leave a comment:


  • bernzpeed
    replied
    Originally posted by Exodus_2pt0
    On all interference motors I always positioned the piston you're working on at TDC and got to work.

    Just use a dowel in the spark plug hole and turn the engine over until it reaches its highest point on the compression stroke.
    Originally posted by MR 325
    Seriously though, the head is not hard to pull!
    Originally posted by FLG
    Nylon rope in the cylinder, rotate the engine to TDC so the rope is squished against the valves, easiest way IMO.
    Boom!

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  • Exodus_2pt0
    replied
    Originally posted by FLG
    Nylon rope in the cylinder, rotate the engine to TDC so the rope is squished against the valves, easiest way IMO.
    True old-school technique.

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  • jlevie
    replied
    Originally posted by AlphaE
    i figure on pullin the rad. I think the cam and rocker arm shafts should come out through the grill area.. Anyone done this w success?
    You won't get the cam and rocker shafts out that easily. You can get them out by doing everything that you'd do to pull the engine/transmission and lifting the assembly well up. Since you won't be able to get to the rear of the head to drive out the rocker shafts you will probably damage them and have to replace them (~$50 ea).

    It would be lots easier to just pull the head, which would be an opportunity to have the valves ground, guides checked and possibly replaced, and the inevitable warp removed by a light surfacing cut.

    Leave a comment:


  • MR 325
    replied
    Seriously though, the head is not hard to pull!

    Leave a comment:


  • FLG
    replied
    Nylon rope in the cylinder, rotate the engine to TDC so the rope is squished against the valves, easiest way IMO.

    Leave a comment:


  • AlphaE
    replied
    i figure on pullin the rad. I think the cam and rocker arm shafts should come out through the grill area.. Anyone done this w success?

    Leave a comment:


  • jason952
    replied
    the comp. air helps the valve not fall in, works well on a small block, IDK for M20

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  • Kershaw
    replied
    how are you planning on putting the cam in while the head is still on the block?

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  • Exodus_2pt0
    replied
    On all interference motors I always positioned the piston you're working on at TDC and got to work.

    Just use a dowel in the spark plug hole and turn the engine over until it reaches its highest point on the compression stroke.

    Leave a comment:

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