What's the recipe for a more badass M20?

[Chubtone]

I'm not talking about forced induction or going crazy with money as no object. I want to keep it naturally aspirated. I'm not trying to stay within the rules of a particular class. Just build a hot street motor that will be reliable and fun enough for track days. What can you do in the $3-4k range? Thanks

[smooth]

Talk to Robert over at http://www.e30motorwerks.com

[Rsully70sev]

S5x
M5x

M20's are awesome motors, but can only go sooo far NA.

[ALYKZANDYR]

reading r3v for a while now and from what i have read the only way to get good performance out of an M20 is a full rebuild, longer stroke, new ecu, and going turbo with "i" cyl head.

[OniKyan]

S5x
M5x

M20's are awesome motors, but can only go sooo far NA.

Not relevant to thread.



OP, for 3-4k you could do a decent build.

2.7, or 2.8, headwork, cam, Megasquirt/AFM delete, headers, exhaust and freshen everything up while you're in there.

[deutschman]

Can you do any of the work your self? If so what are you comfortable doing by your self? The more money you pay some one ells to do work for you the less you can spend on the motor. Do a "stroker" motor with an "e" bottom end and and "i" head. Have the bottom end rebuilt with OE components. Have the head rebuilt and have the machinist do a three angle valve job (30/45/62 intake, and 30/45/ 60 exhasut). Get a 272 cam (you wont have to machine the pistons or get over size eccentrics). Try and port match the intake and intake runners, and exhaust runners and exhaust. Get some good headers, 19lb injectors, fuel regulator, and m30 AFM. You should be able to do all that with your budget and maybe even still have some money left over to play with.
You can also talk to Andrew over at Ireland Engineering, or some one at Groma race Fabrication.

[dashboardmonkey]

Cam, injectors, m30 afm and chip. Or turbo

[323iNathan]

I'd go with new gaskets/seals, chip, MAF/CAI, headers + catback, cam + adjustable cam gear (apparently the 284/272 schrick works nicely).
Keeping it NA I'd say the next step from there would be 2.7, 2.8 or 3.0L stroker.

[MR 325]

Buy one of my cylinder heads of course!

[acolella76]

3.2L stroker with Metric Mechanic pistons, MR.325 cylinder head 288 cam, extrude hone intake manifold, big bore throttle body, long tube headers, Megasquirt for wasted spark and MAF delete. Just a start...

[nando]

for $3-4k - spend it on the cylinder head, long tube headers, and a tune.

changing the size of the bottom end doesn't make a huge difference for how much it will cost, not in comparison to the above 3. The main advantage there is more bottom end grunt and a higher CR, but it's really not worth doing less than a 3.1 liter, because they will all end up costing about the same (2.8, 2.9 etc). But by that time you've probably spent twice your $4k budget with the required supporting mods (stock intake manifold/TB isn't going to help on a 3.1 with good exhaust and a worked head).

[nando]

Can you do any of the work your self? If so what are you comfortable doing by your self? The more money you pay some one ells to do work for you the less you can spend on the motor. Do a "stroker" motor with an "e" bottom end and and "i" head. Have the bottom end rebuilt with OE components. Have the head rebuilt and have the machinist do a three angle valve job (30/45/62 intake, and 30/45/ 60 exhasut). Get a 272 cam (you wont have to machine the pistons or get over size eccentrics). Try and port match the intake and intake runners, and exhaust runners and exhaust. Get some good headers, 19lb injectors, fuel regulator, and m30 AFM. You should be able to do all that with your budget and maybe even still have some money left over to play with.
You can also talk to Andrew over at Ireland Engineering, or some one at Groma race Fabrication.

a motor like this would cost $4k, but not really make a lot more power than stock.

2.7i's are best for turbos, N/A they're pretty "meh".

with $4k, he could do a LOT better than 19# injectors, FPR, and M30 AFM.. a basic miller MAF kit would be a better deal and likely perform better. adjustable FPRs are mostly pointless if you're N/A.