Knocking Type Sound From Engine Updated w/ vid!

[jlevie]

There is no need to drain the coolant or remove the radiator to check timing. It is best done by removing the belts, removing the fan and water pump pulley, removing the harmonic balancer, distributor, and then the timing covers. Using a 22mm wrench on the crank bolt from the left side, rotate the engine until the cam timing marks are close to being lined up. The continue to rotate the crank until the mark on the crank hub lines up with the notch in the inner timing cover. When those marks are lined up see if the cam and head marks are lined up.

[steinbachphoto]

There is no need to drain the coolant or remove the radiator to check timing. It is best done by removing the belts, removing the fan and water pump pulley, removing the harmonic balancer, distributor, and then the timing covers. Using a 22mm wrench on the crank bolt from the left side, rotate the engine until the cam timing marks are close to being lined up. The continue to rotate the crank until the mark on the crank hub lines up with the notch in the inner timing cover. When those marks are lined up see if the cam and head marks are lined up.

Sorry, my timing is fine. This is in regards to doing the valve adjustment and how to crank the cam to adjust each valve.

[jeffnhiscars]

If it were mine I'd adjust the valves first before I started removing anything since you probably have to do that anyway.

[steinbachphoto]

If it were mine I'd adjust the valves first before I started removing anything since you probably have to do that anyway.

.....

That's all I'm going to do is adjust the valves.

[paperplane94]

.....

That's all I'm going to do is adjust the valves.

All your doing is turning the crank bolt to adjust the valves, Jlevie was correct in that you need to use a 22 mm wrench on the bolt to turn it.

BUT if you dont want to turn it by hand you may be able to turn it by hand you can bump the starter on through your diagnostic port. But some M20's might not have it but here the link anyways.

http://paulaxford.com/html/bmw730i/valve_adjustment.htm

If you have the diag. port with the flat side it may be different.

OTHERWISE, pull the plugs and turn the crank, easy!

[steinbachphoto]

I just didn't think there's enough clearance to get a socket down there to crank it without removing the rad.

I do have a Diag port. What's the one with the flat side?

[paperplane94]

this is the flat sided one (aka-Diagnostic connector):



this is the round one(aka-Data Link connector):



The Ports varied by engine and MY.
If you have the round port then you can FOR SURE jumper pins 11 & 14 to run/bump over the starter to crank the engine so you don't have to turn it by hand. Big help when adjusting the valves especially if you make your own pushbutton for the pins.

IF you have the flat sided connector then there may or may not be pins for bumping the starter, im not too sure. You can try the bump start method but it may not work. I would incorporate a fuse in the jumper wire in case anything goes wrong.

According to this it should work for the flat sided connector as well:



If you have the round one or the flat sided one then go ahead and try it with a fuse.

[Keith M]

I just didn't think there's enough clearance to get a socket down there to crank it without removing the rad.

Yes there is.

[paperplane94]

lol

"to each his own..."

[steinbachphoto]

this is the flat sided one (aka-Diagnostic connector):



this is the round one(aka-Data Link connector):



The Ports varied by engine and MY.
If you have the round port then you can FOR SURE jumper pins 11 & 14 to run/bump over the starter to crank the engine so you don't have to turn it by hand. Big help when adjusting the valves especially if you make your own pushbutton for the pins.

IF you have the flat sided connector then there may or may not be pins for bumping the starter, im not too sure. You can try the bump start method but it may not work. I would incorporate a fuse in the jumper wire in case anything goes wrong.

According to this it should work for the flat sided connector as well:



If you have the round one or the flat sided one then go ahead and try it with a fuse.

I have a round one so maybe I'll give it a go. I'll solder something up at work today. what size fuse do you think should be used?

[steinbachphoto]

From your diagram the Data Link Pin 11 is not occupied :S is it still correct to use that one?

[rtwaits]

I use a 1/2 ratchet with a 22mm socket with the radiator in place. There is not enoiugh room to put the wrnch and socket on the bolt as a unit, so I take the socket alone and put it on the crank bolt. Then I put the socket wrench on the socket. There is enough room to then turn everything as desired. To remove the socket, I separate the wrench from the socket with a flat blade screwdriver, then take the socket out.

I dont even bother to remove the plugs - either I have crappy compression or the wrench gives me enough leverage.

[paperplane94]

From your diagram the Data Link Pin 11 is not occupied :S is it still correct to use that one?

Yeah, thats weird. It might not be correct.

Just try it for kicks with a 7.5 amp fuse and jumper wire. Pins 11 & 14.


If not then go ahead and do the tried and true pull the plugs, turn the crank, removing anything else if you have to.

[steinbachphoto]

Yeah, thats weird. It might not be correct.

Just try it for kicks with a 7.5 amp fuse and jumper wire. Pins 11 & 14.


If not then go ahead and do the tried and true pull the plugs, turn the crank, removing anything else if you have to.

I found another diagram of that data link and it stated pins 11 and 14 are the ones to use. That's enough confirmation for me. I'll try it tonight.

Here's a button I fabbed up.

[paperplane94]

use a fuse!