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Bullet Ride's 2.8L Stroker Project (Updated: Dyno Plot pg. 6)

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  • Dubs
    replied
    Bump
    great thread, nice motivation there

    Leave a comment:


  • Bullet Ride
    replied
    Originally posted by zaq123 View Post
    How are those mild steel BavAuto headers holding up? Any rust issues etc? I just picked up brand new coated set of Bav headers +mid pipes. Wonder how long they will last.
    There are a couple of pretty decent flat spots on the bottom from scraping on high speed dips in the road (these things hang low) but overall they are holding up ok.

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  • zaq123
    replied
    How are those mild steel BavAuto headers holding up? Any rust issues etc? I just picked up brand new coated set of Bav headers +mid pipes. Wonder how long they will last.
    Last edited by zaq123; 04-10-2017, 08:44 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bullet Ride
    replied
    Originally posted by LovelessAndroid View Post
    What a great thread... sorry to resurrect it for my question though!

    What 325i pistons did you use initially, early or late model? I was wondering if using late model pistons would require machining the crank counterweights since they have a shorter skirt than the early model. I'd love to avoid that job...
    Late model.

    Leave a comment:


  • LovelessAndroid
    replied
    What a great thread... sorry to resurrect it for my question though!

    What 325i pistons did you use initially, early or late model? I was wondering if using late model pistons would require machining the crank counterweights since they have a shorter skirt than the early model. I'd love to avoid that job...

    Leave a comment:


  • cgk_iii
    replied
    Ok cool. Thanks guys!

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  • digger
    replied
    Originally posted by cgk_iii View Post
    Wow ok, that makes things a lot more clear. What is the recommended process then? Every machine shop I've talked to about taking material off the counter weights, look at me like I'm speaking a different language. I have access to a lathe, but I think the crank is a bit too long to fit. We have a big lathe at school but my "high performance" teacher thinks machining the crank is not the right way as well. Really don't want to spend $600-$1000 on custom pistons if I don't need to.
    basically you need to find one that can machine it, and get everything balanced again. machining the crank isn't the right way but it is probably going to be your most economical way

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  • cgk_iii
    replied
    Originally posted by digger View Post
    in this pic it is shown with a 135mm rod so a 130mm rod would mean the crank counterweight would foul the piston boss as well as the skirt. machining the boss away is not recommended. note that not all counterweights are the same radius either so some may sneak in others not.

    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...4&postcount=46
    Wow ok, that makes things a lot more clear. What is the recommended process then? Every machine shop I've talked to about taking material off the counter weights, look at me like I'm speaking a different language. I have access to a lathe, but I think the crank is a bit too long to fit. We have a big lathe at school but my "high performance" teacher thinks machining the crank is not the right way as well. Really don't want to spend $600-$1000 on custom pistons if I don't need to.

    Leave a comment:


  • Reichart12
    replied
    Hey sweet build and that sound is great. Im building an engine kinda similar to this and have a couple questions if you don't mind. What injectors are you running? And when you built the exhaust did you use a flew pipe or just headers to mid and the rest?

    Leave a comment:


  • digger
    replied
    Originally posted by Bullet Ride View Post
    wow... that looks ghetto as f**k! lol
    yep, had heaps of spare scuffed pistons and it was the easiest way to check clearance with a much much bigger crank;)

    Leave a comment:


  • Bullet Ride
    replied
    Originally posted by digger View Post
    in this pic it is shown with a 135mm rod so a 130mm rod would mean the crank counterweight would foul the piston boss as well as the skirt. machining the boss away is not recommended. note that not all counterweights are the same radius either so some may sneak in others not.

    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...4&postcount=46
    wow... that looks ghetto as f**k! lol

    Leave a comment:


  • digger
    replied
    in this pic it is shown with a 135mm rod so a 130mm rod would mean the crank counterweight would foul the piston boss as well as the skirt. machining the boss away is not recommended. note that not all counterweights are the same radius either so some may sneak in others not.

    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...4&postcount=46

    Leave a comment:


  • Bullet Ride
    replied
    Originally posted by cgk_iii View Post
    Hey, had a question regarding the way you machined the crank. Do you think you could have gotten away with taking material off the piston skirts in order for the crank to fit or do you think machining the counterweights was your best option?
    Apparently it's been done that way before. I think part of it depends on which crank you have because there are a couple different 2.8L cranks. The best way to find out is to put a rod and piston on to the crank and take some measurements.

    Leave a comment:


  • cgk_iii
    replied
    Hey, had a question regarding the way you machined the crank. Do you think you could have gotten away with taking material off the piston skirts in order for the crank to fit or do you think machining the counterweights was your best option?

    Leave a comment:


  • Bullet Ride
    replied
    Originally posted by darvo View Post
    What compression ratio would your engine have with that setup?
    It hasn't been verified but I calculated it to be somewhere between 9.7:1 and 9.8:1

    Leave a comment:

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