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great thread, nice motivation there
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Bullet Ride's 2.8L Stroker Project (Updated: Dyno Plot pg. 6)
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Originally posted by zaq123 View PostHow are those mild steel BavAuto headers holding up? Any rust issues etc? I just picked up brand new coated set of Bav headers +mid pipes. Wonder how long they will last.
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Originally posted by LovelessAndroid View PostWhat a great thread... sorry to resurrect it for my question though!
What 325i pistons did you use initially, early or late model? I was wondering if using late model pistons would require machining the crank counterweights since they have a shorter skirt than the early model. I'd love to avoid that job...
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What a great thread... sorry to resurrect it for my question though!
What 325i pistons did you use initially, early or late model? I was wondering if using late model pistons would require machining the crank counterweights since they have a shorter skirt than the early model. I'd love to avoid that job...
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Originally posted by cgk_iii View PostWow ok, that makes things a lot more clear. What is the recommended process then? Every machine shop I've talked to about taking material off the counter weights, look at me like I'm speaking a different language. I have access to a lathe, but I think the crank is a bit too long to fit. We have a big lathe at school but my "high performance" teacher thinks machining the crank is not the right way as well. Really don't want to spend $600-$1000 on custom pistons if I don't need to.
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Originally posted by digger View Postin this pic it is shown with a 135mm rod so a 130mm rod would mean the crank counterweight would foul the piston boss as well as the skirt. machining the boss away is not recommended. note that not all counterweights are the same radius either so some may sneak in others not.
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...4&postcount=46
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Hey sweet build and that sound is great. Im building an engine kinda similar to this and have a couple questions if you don't mind. What injectors are you running? And when you built the exhaust did you use a flew pipe or just headers to mid and the rest?
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Originally posted by digger View Postin this pic it is shown with a 135mm rod so a 130mm rod would mean the crank counterweight would foul the piston boss as well as the skirt. machining the boss away is not recommended. note that not all counterweights are the same radius either so some may sneak in others not.
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...4&postcount=46
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in this pic it is shown with a 135mm rod so a 130mm rod would mean the crank counterweight would foul the piston boss as well as the skirt. machining the boss away is not recommended. note that not all counterweights are the same radius either so some may sneak in others not.
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Originally posted by cgk_iii View PostHey, had a question regarding the way you machined the crank. Do you think you could have gotten away with taking material off the piston skirts in order for the crank to fit or do you think machining the counterweights was your best option?
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Hey, had a question regarding the way you machined the crank. Do you think you could have gotten away with taking material off the piston skirts in order for the crank to fit or do you think machining the counterweights was your best option?
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Originally posted by darvo View PostWhat compression ratio would your engine have with that setup?
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