89 I motor into 88 SETA

[AutoXinE30]

I putting my 89I motor in from my wrecked 4dr into an 88 SETA and have a couple questions.

First some details:
-The motor was pulled from the 89 in running condition, it was driven into the garage and pulled. Nothing was disconnected from the motor but the starter, the harness was pulled with it. I put a new starter in it when the motor went in since it's a bastard to change anyway.

-The 88 SETA was purchased not running (ended up being a broken #1 rod). Not sure if the fuel pump worked, key definitely engaged the starter.

On to the questions...

The 89 harness should plug into the c101 at the 88 fuse box and nothing needs to be changed right?

The fuel pump isn't turning on with the key, and the starter is not engaging. BUT, when I turn the key all the way forward to start, the radio does not cut off and I have interior power. I am 90% sure it functioned correctly before I pulled the motor, so I am inclined to believe it may be something I crossed or didn't put back right. I am not sure if the fuel pump worked before I pulled the SETA motor...

Where should I start first? Is the fuel pump/starter a related issue or two separate issues?

Thanks

[jeffw]

check fuses. Then check and make sure you didn't yank any wires out of the c101 then test the connection at the pump. if all that is good then change the pump. All the hookups should be drop in. nothing that would affect the fuel pump

[jlevie]

The fuel pump is only going to run when the DME sees timing data from a rotating engine. So ignore that for now. The starter issue is where you need to focus.

The first check would be to see if power is being applied to the starter solenoid when the key is turned to start. If it is and the main power connection is good and the engine to chassis ground is good, the starter is the problem.

The unloader (that turns off stuff when the engine is cranking) is part of the starter solenoid. Until the starter problem is resolved that function won't work.

[AutoXinE30]

I'll have to test it after work tonight. I remember the ground wire at the strut and the ground wire from the oil pan to the body. Is there anyother ground I forgot? I didn't pull the fuse box, I just disconnected the power wire from the terminal on the passenger side of the engine bay and moved it out of my way.

[jlevie]

The ground that matters, as far as the starter is concerned, is the wire from the engine to the chassis on the left side. What is the system voltage before and while attempting to crank the engine (to the tenth of a volt)?

[AutoXinE30]

For whatever reason it was the ground wire that was bad even though it did turn the car over before the SETA was pulled. Swapped it for the new one from the 89 and it cranked over just fine. Still no fuel pump.

I don't have the MS2 hooked up (it was used in the 89 with this motor for a year or so) but the fuel pump should still prime when the key comes on right?



edit: Fuel pump turns on when jumped at the relay, so the fuel pump at least works... what to test next?

[jlevie]

The fuel pump relay, in the stock configuration, is controlled by the DME and only energized when the DME sees timing data from a rotating engine. The pump does not prime when the ignition is turned on.

[AutoXinE30]

I was just coiming back to ask if the 88 primed because I do remember the 89 priming with the key but my 87 528e does not prime.

So I guess all is good and I'll have to see if it cranks this weekend.

Thanks guys :-)

[ForcedFirebird]

The fuel pump relay, in the stock configuration, is controlled by the DME and only energized when the DME sees timing data from a rotating engine. The pump does not prime when the ignition is turned on.

I was just coiming back to ask if the 88 primed because I do remember the 89 priming with the key but my 87 528e does not prime.

So I guess all is good and I'll have to see if it cranks this weekend.

Thanks guys :-)

Motronic 1.0 and 1.3 does not prime, if yours did, then it was hot wired to the ignition.

Check your relays in the engine harness.

[AutoXinE30]

Motronic 1.0 and 1.3 does not prime, if yours did, then it was hot wired to the ignition.

Check your relays in the engine harness.

I didn't see anything changed beyond stock besides my jumper for the oxygen sensor heater circuit for the MS2. ( and I might have remembered wrong as well)

BUT

Went out there today after all the playing I did last week. Hooked up the fuel lines, plugged in the MS2, went to crank the key and I got smoke and no starter. Main power relay wiring is fried. Heat around the C101..

Only electrical change from the ground wire swap was the plugging in of the MS. This unit ran the 89 when I pulled it into the garage and then was stored inside till I plugged it back in today... I haven't taken it apart yet but, I don't understand how it might have cause the issue.


Makes me wanna let it burn.... Very frustrated.

[AutoXinE30]

Melted wire is the red/yellow wire in the center of the main power relay connector. Haven't found it in the ETM yet.


Edit 1: Wires are melted past the C101 into the fuse box and down into the wires that exit the bottom of the fuse box... This is gonna suck.

Edit 2: Pulled the rubber cover back on the body side, it appears to be a brown wire, terminal 20 that is melted the most Every C101 diagram I find says ABS or no used... wtf?

[AutoXinE30]

This guy apparently did the same thing

http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92985

Found this thread

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1690158

Prompted me to check the 88 Harness and it also does not have a the red/yellow wire coming from the main harness like the 89 does...

So apparently pin 20 on the 88 side is a grounded wire...



If I find a good 88 SETA harness (the one from my 88 was backyard rigged) and repair the burnt wire on the body side everything should be gravy right?

In hindsight, where should the red/yellow wire be going? on the 88 C101? And what is the 88 C101 grounding?

[AutoXinE30]

So after some research it seems the 89 harness C101-pin20 is supposed to be ABS power Red/Yellow. On the 88 harness C101-pin20 is supposed to be gauge Coolant temp sensor ground to G200, Brown.

Apparently the C101's aren't quite plug and play and I hooked up a powered wire to a direct, un-fused circuit, hence the smoke....

I cut the power wire on the eng harness side and hooked up the factor ECU and with that wire cut, the vehicle cranked over and ran. Hooked up the MS and got the same.


It doesn't seem any of the other wires are damaged, everything I can see so far still seems to function as normal but, that was just a quick check... I'm guessing since the temp gauge sensor isn't grounded anymore I won't get a temperature at the cluster when the car is running...?

Guess I'll have to pin out both C101's and see what else isn't quite perfect.

[AutoXinE30]

Found a pin out of an 89 325i and made a pin out using the 88 ETM and the harness...

Every pin matches up exactly, including the color, except for pin 20. In the 88 ETM the Red/Yellow wire for the ABS system comes from the over-voltage protection relay where as the 89 ETM shows two different charts.... One early production and one late production. Early production is the same as 88, late production shows the ABS power coming from the C101-pin 20... (the 89 the motor came from was 4/89)

The 89 ETM shows the coolant temp sender for the gauge to be one wire. So I should actually get a temperature reading at the cluster... right?

The brown wire @ pin 20 that I fried on the body side isn't needed since the 89 harness uses a 1 wire and still should send temp...

The red wire @ pin 20 that I fried on the engine side isn't needed because it powers the ABS unit, which on the 88 body harness, gets it's power from a source that isn't located on the engine harness....

Right?

So as long as none of the other wires are damaged, it should be ok while I hunt for an untouched 88+ harness.