Newly rebuilt M20 AFM - $70 (Standard MF20040) NOT a forsale thread

[noid]

It may be worth while for you to pickup a used AFM locally to make sure the code isn't a result of your new AFM. Locally here they go for free-$20.

[IAmGary]

Turns out I have some issues not related to the AFM (namely a misfire that I've since diagnosed). Car is running better than ever now, though I still get a CEL 1222 every once in a while but I don't believe that is related to the AFM.

So I'm keeping this remanufactured AFM. It bothers me a bit that I had to use flange bolts to install it but it works, looks clean in the engine bay and was cheap. I'd recommend it.

[IAmGary]

No, at least none that I haven't already diagnosed. I recently had a smoke test and made some repairs based on that. This morning I reset the ECU by unplugging the battery for 5 minutes, after which the car stalled 3-4 times before I was able to keep it alive with some throttle. I am assuming that the ECU evaluating the AFM. I've been driving it around since and after each cold start it gets a little better. Will post an update when there's more to say.

[dogsbark26]

IAmGary - Were you getting any CEL before replacing the AFM? Sounds like not but just asking.

[IAmGary]

Not planning to pop the cover, but I will try disconnecting the battery for a few hours tomorrow A.M. Thanks for the tip.

[noid]

Further updates would be appreciated. Maybe you can disconnect the battery for a few hours to allow the ECU to reset?

Do you plan to pop the cover off to check the internals?

[IAmGary]

Update: I was going to ship it back because of the missing screws but curiosity got the better of me and I installed the AFM. I had to buy 4 6mmx18mm flange bolts at Home Depot to attach it to the air box since the set screws are missing from these refurbished AFMs.

My e30 seems to be idling about the same RPM as before the swap but is smooth(er) during acceleration. The car is generating a 1222 CEL when idling at stop lights but (not that I know for sure) it's possible that my ECU needs to adjust to the new AFM.

[noid]

Any updates?

[dogsbark26]

Would be cool to see the internals. The cap it relatively easy to pop off (slice away the silicone).

Dusty, poor packaging and reman sticker from mexico aren't really problems.

I completely agree. Are the working parts actually replaced with NEW?

Another concern that arose after seeing how this procedure is done, is that after bending the arm there really is no way to confirm that the two little pin that contact the resistor material are pressing on the resistor material at the same pressure as before. Generally speaking its no big deal, the long term issue is that if its pressing harder then before, it will wear away the fresh material more quickly then it did the original tracks. If its pressing to lighly then after the material wears away then the contacts may no longer touch the tracks. I guess this whole point may be moot if the resistor material is thick enough to where if the arm is pressing against the material more then originally it will just wear away until it is the correct pressure.

THIS seems to me to be the main concern with the whole bending of the arm school of thought (although, apparently, Gregs///M has had units serviced in this manner that have been in operation for quite some time without failure).

[noid]

So I ordered one of these, but I don't think I'm going to install it:

- item was not packed very well, there was a slice on one side of the inner box
- item was dusty when it arrived
- paint job is mediocre, who knows what the electronics are like
- made in mexico sticker (but actual part is BOSCH made in germany)

and the biggest problem that perhaps should have been obvious from the picture:

- no bolts for mounting the AFM to the air box or air filter (see photo)
- emailed the supplier, they suggest returning it

If I install this I'll update this thread with the results.

Would be cool to see the internals. The cap it relatively easy to pop off (slice away the silicone).

Dusty, poor packaging and reman sticker from mexico aren't really problems.

After finding that my AFM intake lip was bent (I ended up picking a used AFM up locally), I ended up doing the arm adjustment on my old AFM unit just to see how easy it is. I was literally done in less then 5 min :rofl:

Another concern that arose after seeing how this procedure is done, is that after bending the arm there really is no way to confirm that the two little pin that contact the resistor material are pressing on the resistor material at the same pressure as before. Generally speaking its no big deal, the long term issue is that if its pressing harder then before, it will wear away the fresh material more quickly then it did the original tracks. If its pressing to lighly then after the material wears away then the contacts may no longer touch the tracks. I guess this whole point may be moot if the resistor material is thick enough to where if the arm is pressing against the material more then originally it will just wear away until it is the correct pressure.

[IAmGary]

So I ordered one of these, but I don't think I'm going to install it:

- item was not packed very well, there was a slice on one side of the inner box
- item was dusty when it arrived
- paint job is mediocre, who knows what the electronics are like
- made in mexico sticker (but actual part is BOSCH made in germany)

and the biggest problem that perhaps should have been obvious from the picture:

- no bolts for mounting the AFM to the air box or air filter (see photo)
- emailed the supplier, they suggest returning it

If I install this I'll update this thread with the results.

[noid]

I have a $20 off digital coupon for advanced auto parts if anyone is thinking of trying one of these units out. That would make the total $50 bucks.

[jeffnhiscars]

Jeff appreciate your input, even if somewhat negative.

You asked the question. Dont shoot the messenger.

[ForcedFirebird]

You said earlier in this thread to NOT trust internet. Looking at your started threads you offered to give $5 for resistance on a cts. moving on you then stated that you help with mechanical and elect issues on e30, as well as stating that I post wrong info and member should disregard my into but if you got off your high horse and researched my username as I did yours you would see.

Some of us do type on phones and have fat fingers and left out punctuation. So what.

I asked a question about e30 mechanics that can only be answered by experience.

[Gregs///M]

Still don't get why you couldn't go out to your own e30 and get CTS values. Just like I don't know why you can't go out to your e30 and plug in a 153 and see what I am talking about with the reference values. Same harness, same car, different ECU and you voltages change on reference.

To confirm my own values. Simple. I needed to verify my values.

Repeating info is what kills the "old school" way of checking the internet.

If you do a search on m42 with a Getrag 260 on the internet, tell me what drive-shaft to use. If you can come up with the correct answer, I will personally post it in my signature.

Huh? Your first sentence makes no sense. Your second sentence doesn't even have a question mark. Why get into something that has nothing to do with the topic? I'm not going to entertain your question.