I've got my M20 stripped and mounted on a stand.. just ordered as much as I could think of in terms of 'while you're in there' parts including cylinder head and crankcase gasket sets. So I'm doing headgasket, water pump, tensioner, belt, head bolts, rear crank seal.. I know I won't be able to replace every last thing (i.e. things like valve stem seals). I am looking for advice as far as what I can reasonably expect to be able to replace during this project without too much trouble.. looking at the Bentley I'm fairly sure I'm not gonna loosen that 22mm crankshaft bolt, but given that I have some time and access with the engine on a stand and a full set of seals- what's a a good list of seals/gaskets I can get to and replace from these sets, and any advice pertaining to specific ones. Thanks much.
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Headgasket/Bolts/T Belt/ Water Pump/etc
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Why did you pull the engine in the 1st place and why would you go to all that effort and not replace something like the valve seals ?Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com
https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
Alice the Time Capsule
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220
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Parts touched during TB / WP change
Water pump bolts and wave washers
Coolant block drain bolt crush washer
Gasket for Front Engine Cover (timing cover lower)
Valve Adjusting Eccentrics – if worn
O-Ring for Oil Filter Housing to Block
Seal Kit for Oil Filter Housing
Camshaft Seal
Cam Flange O-Ring
Intermediate Shaft Seal
Crankshaft seal, front
Holding Clip, Front of Timing Belt Cover – become brittle over time and break easily, hold sensor wire(s) away from belts
Radiator hoses and clamps – depending on condition
Dizzy cap and rotor – depending on condition
3 x 3mm allen bolts for dizzy rotor – easy to strip
a/c, p/s and alternator belts – unless not cracked
Other parts much easier to replace while engine is out
voltage regulator - much easier with alternator removed
injector refurb kit / new injectors
fuel hosessigpic
1988 Lachssilber E30 325i sedan.
Factory fit-out: manual; SILBER LEDER; M SPORT SUSPENSION.
Modifications so far: Miller MAF + 19# ECU; Ford 19# Design 3 injectors; IE adjustable FPR; KAMotors CF airbox; IM MTX-L; EBC Greenstuff.
Retired - '83 Arctic Blue E28 528i powered by M30B32
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Thanks for the input on this. Engine is a spare I had bought a few years ago that does not need much. Broke a T-Belt, pulled that engine. Getting this one ready to put back in my car. Minimal budget but I generally work with as many new parts (fasteners for sure) as I can afford. Things like valve stem seals, removing the crank bolt.. do I really need all the special tools? Advice is appreciated.. I would love to use every last piece of these upper and lower gasket sets, just trying to get an idea of how in depth to get. I have a couple weeks to get the car back on the road basically and 90% of the new parts on hand.
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Im expecting 12 valve seals to be delivered today so this should be current :-)
Elring OEM for 69c@. No special tools required.Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com
https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
Alice the Time Capsule
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220
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