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    Replacing cam seal...any other seals to replace?

    I'm in the process of tracking down a leak on my m20. I was convinced after speaking with one machanic that it was from my HG, jst he's been known to be a crook after perusing some forums.

    After seeing a much more reputable mechanic, he recommended simply replacing the cam seal, VC gasket, rubber plugs, and whatever other seals are at the front of the engine, since the oil would be pushed rearward from the airflow.

    So I have the cam seal, VC gasket and rubber plugs lined up. Anything else you guys would recommend aside from doing the HG?

    thanks in advance
    If it's got tits or tires, it's gonna cost ya!

    #2
    Originally posted by Stanley Rockafella View Post
    I'm in the process of tracking down a leak on my m20. I was convinced after speaking with one machanic that it was from my HG, jst he's been known to be a crook after perusing some forums.

    After seeing a much more reputable mechanic, he recommended simply replacing the cam seal, VC gasket, rubber plugs, and whatever other seals are at the front of the engine, since the oil would be pushed rearward from the airflow.

    So I have the cam seal, VC gasket and rubber plugs lined up. Anything else you guys would recommend aside from doing the HG?

    thanks in advance
    First of all, there is no air flow inside your engine to "push oil rearward".

    If you are going to change your cam seal there is also an o-ring that goes around the housing so do it too. Keep in mind that by removing the cam gear to replace the seals, you are de-tensioning the timing belt which means it will have to be replaced as well as they are no to be re-tensioned.

    Unless you are certain the cam seal cannot wait till your next TB change, I'd just do the rocker shaft end plugs and valve cover gaskets and see what that accomplishes. Clean first so you can track new oil leaks and just work your way down the engine.
    Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
    Alice the Time Capsule
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
    87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

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      #3
      Thanks for the reply.

      Last TB and tensioner was changed somtime in 03 or 04 so I'm thinking consideirng the AGE of the belt, I'm best just replacing it to be safe. The belt and tensioner have MAYBE 20k miles on them...at MOST....but I am due for a valve adjustment....

      I'll take you advise and replace the VC gasket, end plugs and I'll make SURE to have everythign as dry as possible when cleaning everything up to ensure that I know where the leak is coming from.

      thanks again
      If it's got tits or tires, it's gonna cost ya!

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        #4
        Sorry, one more question...is there an int. shaft seal that should be replaced as well? does this shaft sit closer to the head or on the block?
        If it's got tits or tires, it's gonna cost ya!

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          #5
          Originally posted by Stanley Rockafella View Post
          Thanks for the reply.

          Last TB and tensioner was changed somtime in 03 or 04 so I'm thinking consideirng the AGE of the belt, I'm best just replacing it to be safe. The belt and tensioner have MAYBE 20k miles on them...at MOST....but I am due for a valve adjustment....

          I'll take you advise and replace the VC gasket, end plugs and I'll make SURE to have everythign as dry as possible when cleaning everything up to ensure that I know where the leak is coming from.

          thanks again
          If your TB is that old you MUST change it urgently along with the tensioner & spring. Its mileage OR age according to a senior Conti Engineer (and the rest of the world) so changing it would not be playing it safe...NOT changing it would be a potential disaster. The belt in that pic was dated 2002 and has very little mileage on it. You decide :p

          Perfect time to do the valves too but make sure you have a TB in place

          Originally posted by Stanley Rockafella View Post
          Sorry, one more question...is there an int. shaft seal that should be replaced as well? does this shaft sit closer to the head or on the block?
          To change the IMS seal as well you have to remove the lower timing cover which requires removing the crank nut (300lbs of torque). Its manageable but only if its necessary. Of course do the crank seal as well whikle the cover is off and for any of these seals I recommend Permatex Anaerobic Sealer to hold them in place.
          Attached Files
          Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

          https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
          Alice the Time Capsule
          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
          87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks again for all the help, I'll get those parts on order ASAP
            If it's got tits or tires, it's gonna cost ya!

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