I am stumped

[jlevie]

ok, back to the parts store i got. i'll check back in.

I don't have a guage right now to check compression, but you guys think that could be the issues. I brought this car with a blown head gasket, i check for cracks while disassembled (with a magnifying glass..:) and put a carpenter square on the head and it looked straight. But i would think even if it was a warped head, it would still start but would run like shit, wouldn't it?

While one could detect gross cracks with a visual inspection, fine cracks that open with heat will usually be missed. Which is where dye penetrant testing comes in. And a carpenter's square usually isn't accurate enough to detect minor warp in a head.

Having said that, the head isn't likely to be why the engine won't fire.

[TimKninja]

A compression test wojuld rule that out....or if the engine soundslike it has compression it would fire.
Double check your fuel lines. Ive crossed them a few times and i thought i was getting fuel. but i wasnt.

[e30mpg]

just ordered a new coil and found my compression tester and i'll update with the readouts.

[ForcedFirebird]

Try putting a spark plug on the end of the wire that goes from the coil to the distributor and ground it. If spark is weak there, then the coil (or coil wire) is suspect - if it's good there and weak at the end of the spark plug wire, then the wires/distributor is suspect. Check the resistance on your wires before replacing them, they should be 5-7ohms.

I rarely replace parts "just in case" without diagnosing first. Specially with expensive parts like the distributor and coil.

Also, for coils, I just go to the local parts store and buy an MSD Blaster. They are only $35-45, they just don't fit snug in the stock holder.

[e30mpg]

Try putting a spark plug on the end of the wire that goes from the coil to the distributor and ground it. If spark is weak there, then the coil (or coil wire) is suspect - if it's good there and weak at the end of the spark plug wire, then the wires/distributor is suspect. Check the resistance on your wires before replacing them, they should be 5-7ohms.

I rarely replace parts "just in case" without diagnosing first. Specially with expensive parts like the distributor and coil.

Also, for coils, I just go to the local parts store and buy an MSD Blaster. They are only $35-45, they just don't fit snug in the stock holder.

hmmmm.... make sense, thanks ForcedFirebird. I'll try this and get back to you. If i can't get this motor to run, im going with S50 swap but i do love my 12v motor :)

[AlphaE]

check voltage drop at the coil.. sounds like maybe a bad ground at the coil giving the orange spark... Could be as simple as a wiring connection..

[e30mpg]

just ordered the MSD blaster @ advanced, i'll update when i get it put in.

[e30mpg]

ok, just got my MSD blaster 2 in and i have a question about the inline 8 ohm resistor that the directions is telling i will need. Is this something i need? Also the original coil has a point at the inside for the connection to the wire, but when i look inside of the MSD there is no raised point any input on this also, thnx.

[ForcedFirebird]

I just stuck mine in. Make sure you hook up the polarity proper.

[e30mpg]

I just stuck mine in. Make sure you hook up the polarity proper.

k, thnx

[e30mpg]

plug it in and i get no spark from the MSD, plug the old one back in and i get spark. I took the coil wire off the cap and tested. Still not starting and now my battery is draining. This is what my plugs look like, fouled/black and wet with gas. i guess i will do a compression test tomorrow.

[ForcedFirebird]

The MSD must be bad. I used one for years in my old car.

Do you have the round injector harness under the intake manifold? Those are a common issue.

[e30mpg]

[quote=ForcedFirebird;3526303]The MSD must be bad. I used one for years in my old car.

Do you have the round injector harness under the intake manifold? Those are a common issue.[/quote

yes, but wouldn't that make the injectors stop working if the connector is not seated properly and or getting continuity? But my plugs are wet with gas.

[Exodus_2pt0]

I strongly suggest you do a compression test. We have a car at our shop right now in the same situation. The customer blew the head gasket, so we pulled the head. Sent the head off, had it decked and pressure tested, put it back together and the car just wouldn't fire up. After delaying the inevitable, I performed a compression test and found barely 100psi across the board. As said before it all comes down to how far it is driven after the gasket lets go.

A compression test is simple enough to do, and will answer a lot of questions.

[ForcedFirebird]

I strongly suggest you do a compression test. We have a car at our shop right now in the same situation. The customer blew the head gasket, so we pulled the head. Sent the head off, had it decked and pressure tested, put it back together and the car just wouldn't fire up. After delaying the inevitable, I performed a compression test and found barely 100psi across the board. As said before it all comes down to how far it is driven after the gasket lets go.

A compression test is simple enough to do, and will answer a lot of questions.

A checked and machined head was bad?