open loop idle and temp issues

[jlevie]

The hole in the thermostat really only affects how hard it is to fill the system Without the hole there isn't a good path for the air in the radiator to escape. The block isn't a problem since air can escape via the bleed screw. Once the thermostat partially opens the hole doesn't really do anything.

But you can "cheat". If you disconnect the small hose that goes to the top of the radiator when filling and initially cold bleeding air in the radiator has an easy escape path.

i think i'm stuck in step 5

If by that you mean that each time you check for air after driving you are seeing a significant release of air, either you didn't do the initial bleed properly or there is a small head gasket leak that is pumping air into the cooling system.

[uuc328]

lol i just meant i needed to do step 5 or the method you described above. thanks again!

[dnguyen1963]

The hole in the thermostat really only affects how hard it is to fill the system Without the hole there isn't a good path for the air in the radiator to escape. The block isn't a problem since air can escape via the bleed screw. Once the thermostat partially opens the hole doesn't really do anything.

But you can "cheat". If you disconnect the small hose that goes to the top of the radiator when filling and initially cold bleeding air in the radiator has an easy escape path.

If by that you mean that each time you check for air after driving you are seeing a significant release of air, either you didn't do the initial bleed properly or there is a small head gasket leak that is pumping air into the cooling system.

Often time, there is air trapped in the t-stat housing behind the t-stat. It is a pain to get them out. A hole will help remove those stubborn trapped air. With the hole one might have to perform step 5 only once or twice.

[uuc328]

But you can "cheat". If you disconnect the small hose that goes to the top of the radiator when filling and initially cold bleeding air in the radiator has an easy escape path.

you lost me here. if you disconnect the small hose how does coolant make it from the expansion tank to the radiator?

[jlevie]

That hose is primarily to allow air to escape from the top of the radiator into the expansion tank. Then when engine cools down coolant can be sucked back into the radiator. When filling the system or cold bleeding coolant will flow into the radiator via the large hoses.

[uuc328]

cold bleeding?

edit: derp, i forgot about the lower hose on the tank.

[Quinthirty]

If the temp is still over 1/2, check fuse #3. The fan may not be working at lower temp because of a busted fuse. This happened to me before.

[uuc328]

fuse looks good and the fan kicks on when AC is running but it could be the switch in the radiator?
it's good enough for now, i think i'll focus on the SI batteries and take it from there.

[uuc328]

both temp swithches in the radiator had a lead unplugged got em both hooked now.

cold bled followed by a couple high rev bleeds on an incline, made 2 trips since and needle didn't move past 12, w00t!

[uuc328]

Thursday Update:

Temp issues are be back again, I am certain that the car is not overheating though.
If I apply pressure to the connector behind the temp gauge the needle immediately moves back to 12 o'clock. Maybe a bad connection at the cluster and/or the nut isn't tight enough, I'll tinker with it tonight.

Currently have some RedLine fuel system cleaner mixed in the tank. Could be unrelated but the idle went from solid at 1K when warm to fluxuating between 900 and 700 really slow. If I unplug the ICV idle fluxuctes wildly so the valve is atleast partially working.

[nando]

coolant temp has a huge affect on the idle control. the cluster sensor isn't directly related but if you have a connection issue on that sensor chances are the other one isn't doing so well either.

I'd check all the wiring from the C191 (round connector under the intake) through the injector harness to the coolant sensors. the entire injector harness is removable and it comes apart so you can give it a really good look.

[uuc328]

thank, i'll add that to the list. appreciate the suggestion nando.

[uuc328]

one more thing worth mentioning is that from a cold start idle is rock solid. fires right up, idles at about 1000 for a minute or two then settles down at 700 where it should. only when warm does it do funky things.

[uuc328]

all wiring and plugs look good
didn't find any leaks checking with TB spray
cleaned the ICV again and took a chance and adjusted the screw, now idle is even higher and still fluctuating no matter where the set screw is at.
i did notice that idle stabilizes when the O2 is unplugged but is still high (1K)

[jlevie]

There are lots of places to have an intake leak where carb cleaner, or the like, won't work. The only way to check for intake leaks is to have a shop run a smoke test.