m20 cracked cylinder head

[hamster]

Hello everyone,

The other day I went to adjust the valves in my E30 and discovered a crack in the forward portion of the cylinder head.







Ugh, At this point I am not sure how to proceed.
I am or was using my E30 as a daily driver/dog hauler/grocery getter.
I would like to find a way to remedy this situation in a cost effective manner.

(Not too crazy, in a way that I could convince the wifey that it is not a losing battle to try to keep this beast on the road.)


The vehicle in question is a '90 325i sedan, 5 speed 140k.

Thanks in advance r3v community

[jlevie]

Whether that can be repaired depends on how fan into the head the crack goes. Personally, I wouldn't try and would just get another head.

[Dirty325ix]

jb weld

[hamster]

Whether that can be repaired depends on how fan into the head the crack goes. Personally, I wouldn't try and would just get another head.

Thanks for your insight on this matter jlevie.

I am considering an attempt at doing this job in my carport at home.

Could you recommend a source for a replacement head?

I have seen widely varying prices for m20 heads in my recent perusals of the interwebs.

How does one know if that lump of metal you buy is any good?

jb weld

Lol, Dirty325ix

Actually, I figured I had nothing to lose at this point so I used Q-Bond in the crack.

[jeffnhiscars]

Its a bit far but I got my head from Dave Markert at Markert Motor Works in Atl. I also referred a friend to him for an M50 head and we are both very pleased. Dave is fair and good to deal with. He is also on the forum here somewhere.

[hamster]

Its a bit far but I got my head from Dave Markert at Markert Motor Works in Atl. I also referred a friend to him for an M50 head and we are both very pleased. Dave is fair and good to deal with. He is also on the forum here somewhere.

Thanks for the referral jeffnhiscars.

[Keith M]

Post a wtb in the PNW subforum. If buying used and not rebuilt, the best thing to do is take it to a machine shop and have it checked out before installation.

2 heads ($120 and $100) and a long block ($200) are currently for sale.

[MR 325]

If the crack doesn't go further than it looks like it does you COULD have it tig welded. You'll still need to pull the head and have it cleaned before hand. At that point since it's off I would recommend at minimum having it decked but ideally having the valves ground and valve seals replaced.

I can sell you a stock rebuilt head as well. You can see some of our performance work by clicking the link in my sig. Feel free to PM me for a price.

[hamster]

Post a wtb in the PNW subforum. If buying used and not rebuilt, the best thing to do is take it to a machine shop and have it checked out before installation.

2 heads ($120 and $100) and a long block ($200) are currently for sale.

Thanks Keith M for your thoughts on this matter.

At the moment I am leaning toward a rebuilt head.
Frankly, I don't think I could eyeball a used head and know what to look for.

[hamster]

If the crack doesn't go further than it looks like it does you COULD have it tig welded. You'll still need to pull the head and have it cleaned before hand. At that point since it's off I would recommend at minimum having it decked but ideally having the valves ground and valve seals replaced.

I can sell you a stock rebuilt head as well. You can see some of our performance work by clicking the link in my sig. Feel free to PM me for a price.

PM sent

[redlightpete]

+1 on the JB Weld!

Buy a can of electrical contact cleaner to get the area totally clean and dry, then go to town with the JB weld. You may also need some rtv to keep the valve cover gasket from leaking, but for <$20 you're back in business.

The only question is how the head cracked there. Big impact to the engine lifting bracket, maybe?

[bastianshaw]

i vote tig weld w head still on