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    Broken rocker arm

    Broke one intake side rocker arm at a drift event last week. Was going to adjust valves and discovered I actually broke on off, it failed near the eccentric. Anyways, I have extra rockers (used) that I was going to use to replace it for now, later on I want to pull the head and replace valves/springs/rockers w/ heavy duty. If I can't get the rocker arm out with the head still on I'm planning on pulling the head and replacing the head bolts and gasket. Anything else you guys would suggest, obviously I'm going to inspect the timing belt/tensioner, water pump, thermostat etc. But the motor was just recently dropped in (donor w/ 140k), and the TB, water pump, all that was replaced.

    Ah, this is also my first post on here, having trouble finding much information on my local forum, look forward to learning and contributing here!

    Travis

    #2
    Which cylinder did the rocker break on?
    Need a performance chip for you BMW? Shoot me a PM and I'll get you taken care of!!
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      #3
      I believe cylinder 3 intake, but I've decided to pull the head and replace the headgasket. Any particular brand HG have people had good results with on M20? Hopefully Double02 has hg, and other things I need in stock tomorrow. Also planning on sending the head to get resurfaced and inspect the block surface..

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        #4
        Originally posted by roushman90 View Post
        Any particular brand HG have people had good results with on M20?
        The only one I know you should stay away from is the Victor Reinz unit. Plenty of people have complained of oil and coolant leaks mere months (sometimes sooner) after installation. Elring Klinger and OEM (naturally) would both be good options.
        1989 325i Lachssilber Sedan
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          #5
          goetze hg for the win. heard of a lot of success stories, and thats what im running with my o-ringed block.
          '89 Delphin 2.8 Cabrio
          '94 Yamaha FZR 600

          Originally posted by FlexdXJ
          Is that thing on air?

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            #6
            Originally posted by EatsHondas View Post
            The only one I know you should stay away from is the Victor Reinz unit. Plenty of people have complained of oil and coolant leaks mere months (sometimes sooner) after installation. Elring Klinger and OEM (naturally) would both be good options.
            Originally posted by ToPLeSS(e30)FeinD View Post
            goetze hg for the win. heard of a lot of success stories, and thats what im running with my o-ringed block.

            Thanks for the input, in my research so far tonight I have seen a lot of complaints of premature leakage on the VR hg so I'm definitely staying away from that!

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              #7


              Trying to figure what brand this is?

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                #10
                the IE one is a victor rienz and so is the bavauto I believe.


                7speedshop.com

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                  #11
                  If you pull the head, have it surfaced, valves ground, and new seals installed.
                  The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                  Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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                    #12
                    Consider Ireland Engineering heavy duty rocker arms. They are great and I've been running them in my M20 for at least 15K miles. Affordable and well made. Febi rockers are crap.
                    Owner - Bavarian Restoration
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                      #13
                      Originally posted by kamotors View Post
                      the IE one is a victor rienz and so is the bavauto I believe.
                      Not correct, the IE one is the Elring. How do I know? There's literally 6 sets on the shelf 5 feet away. I'm also sure if you called bavauto they could also supply whichever you prefer.

                      Other inspections.... rocker pads, eccentrics, spray bar (just saw a plugged spraybar destroy a brand new cam/rocker setup in 500 miles), valve stem seals, etc.
                      Last edited by SkiFree; 03-27-2013, 11:37 AM.
                      ADAMS Autosport

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                        #14
                        Originally posted by kamotors View Post
                        the IE one is a victor rienz and so is the bavauto I believe.
                        Thanks for the insight

                        Originally posted by jlevie View Post
                        If you pull the head, have it surfaced, valves ground, and new seals installed.
                        I was planning on for sure getting it resurfaced. And block inspected

                        Originally posted by Gregs///M View Post
                        Consider Ireland Engineering heavy duty rocker arms. They are great and I've been running them in my M20 for at least 15K miles. Affordable and well made. Febi rockers are crap.
                        Through some research the IE's are what I will be replacing all 12 of the rockers with for sure. Pricing is not too bad either.

                        Originally posted by SkiFree View Post
                        Not correct, the IE one is the Elring. How do I know? There's literally 6 sets on the shelf 5 feet away. I'm also sure if you called bavauto they could also supply whichever you prefer.

                        Thanks! I have Double02 Motorsport local to me, they had Goetze hg in stock, but for the full gasket kit, all they had was the Victor Reinz which I've heard only bad things about. I mentioned to the parts guy there all I had heard about VR, he was a little surprised, said he never heard of any issues with the VR gaskets?

                        Other inspections.... rocker pads, eccentrics, spray bar (just saw a plugged spraybar destroy a brand new cam/rocker setup in 500 miles), valve stem seals, etc.
                        Thanks for the insight, these are all things I will look into when I pull the head!

                        ANYWAYS, ended up loosening up the eccentrics and trying to pull out the rocker shaft while the head was still on since I already had the valve cover off I figured why not? Ended up being pretty easy, just removed my rad and since I'm running solid mounts the motor sits a little lower than OEM mounts, allowing me to only have to remove rad in order to pull out the shaft, and since it was cyl 4, I didn't have to remove it completely. It's all back together, just need to flush the coolant system and throw in the new cap/rotor tomorrow.

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                          #15
                          Buttoned up the work I did the other day, added coolant and reconnected wiring. Starts fine, and no valve tick as of right now, just need to bleed coolant system and I should be good to go. Still searching locally for a 3.73 open diff )__(

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