85 eta rough misfire black soot from exhaust

[crazyman]

I know you said earlier that you swapped afm, was that one from your good running ETA? If so was there any change in how the engine was affected?

[2.5-12]

I noticed you never mentioned changing the timing belt(you did mention checking timing though)or having adjusted the valves (I read this thread twice just to make sure). From your post it seems you have been very thourough so it seemed odd you hadn't mentioned these two things, unless you havn't done them. The valves could have changed after a recent adjustment due to wear on a high point on the eccentric (completely new thing to me, I'm use to adjusting nuts and timing chains now I get to learn about belts and eccentrics).

I really don't have enough experience to even know if either of those two things would cause the symptoms in these cars, but they have been related in other vehicles I've owned and some I still own. I always change the timing belt, so far (knock on wood) I havn't experienced any belt related issues. Just thought I would throw it out there. My thought was eliminate all variables.

If these symptoms are completely unrelated to Valve adj. and belt I appologise for noob post and cluttering up the thread.

Ranx

I did change the belt and tensioner, I recently re checked my timing marks and belt tension

no such thing as clutter in a thread like this -- any help is appreciated. :)

I know you said earlier that you swapped afm, was that one from your good running ETA? If so was there any change in how the engine was affected?

I swapped two ETA AFMs in from my parts pile, I should try the AFM from my good running ETA that's a good call.

the engine changed maybe a tiny bit between AFMs, but always ended up running and behaving just as poorly in the end.

[crazyman]

I just thought about it. When my afm went out it affected the whole rpm range except idle. It was really noticeable at wot. Hope it helps, I'll keep scratching my brain and let you know if I come up with any other ideas.

[2.5-12]

I'll swap to the AFM from my DD ETA and I'll adjust valves to .010" to check it out


next on the list is swap everything over to SuperETA electronics since that would at least give me a damn Check Engine Light

[2.5-12]

final bump before I try and convert this pig to motronic 1.1

[crazyman]

Have you looked at the flywheel to see if those firing pins are still there and intact? That would cause a timing issue witch could partially be overlooked as something else perhaps. I heard that there prone to falling out, have never seen one or know what happens. I'm sure has happened to someone on here maybe, worth checking. Imop though.

[2.5-12]

I'm guessing its still there because when unplugged, each of the flywheel reference sensors seem to make it run worse or stop the engine all together when unplugged which makes sense.

[crazyman]

Well crap. Back to the thinking tank.

[EatsHondas]

You swapped the TPS, but did you test it electronically and make sure it's physically adjusted properly? I watched your videos and it was interesting to me how it revved fine with a lot of throttle, but ran like dick when you only gave it a little bit.

Also, I've seen no mention of the coolant temp sensor ITT. I'd test/change it if you haven't already. Make sure it's OEM too (Bosch). If it's not, replace it no matter what.

Just did some reading: early ETA's have 4 sensors/switches on the T-stat housing. Does yours? One is the sender for the temp gauge, one feeds the DME with coolant temp info, one operates the cold-start injector, and the last decides if the engine should run in open or closed loop (i.e. lets the DME start accepting information from the o2 sensor).

^Probably should verify that paragraph, but it's late and I'm getting lazy. Should be close at least.

[2.5-12]

You swapped the TPS, but did you test it electronically and make sure it's physically adjusted properly? I watched your videos and it was interesting to me how it revved fine with a lot of throttle, but ran like dick when you only gave it a little bit.

Also, I've seen no mention of the coolant temp sensor ITT. I'd test/change it if you haven't already. Make sure it's OEM too (Bosch). If it's not, replace it no matter what.

Just did some reading: early ETA's have 4 sensors/switches on the T-stat housing. Does yours? One is the sender for the temp gauge, one feeds the DME with coolant temp info, one operates the cold-start injector, and the last decides if the engine should run in open or closed loop (i.e. lets the DME start accepting information from the o2 sensor).

^Probably should verify that paragraph, but it's late and I'm getting lazy. Should be close at least.

I wish I had a second set of reference sensors to try again, but I do have more TPSs. have tried two with no change.

I do have the early thermo with 4 sensors, swapped all four from my perfect running ETA.

picking up a SETA electronic swap setup this weekend hopefully I get it sorted before I resort to swapping all that crap in :x

[THQ]

any updates? I have an elevated issue related to this.

[603Racing]

...as do I.

I'm wondering if you have a harness (wiring) issue.

[2.5-12]

no updates worth anything guys -- harness may be an issue its really hard to say. at this point I'm grabbing at straws. I have a full SuperETA harness and intake system to drop on this car but haven't yet done it out of hopes it starts co operating

I started it to move it last week, starts right up and will idle high, but will happily idle up high with no notable soot or smoke out of the tail pipe. if I press the gas just slightly it violently bucks and sometimes dies. if I repeatedly jab the gas, I can get it to rev a little and get the car moving but its a huge PITA.

I'd love to hear other things to try though. I have tons of parts and parts cars so i can try just about anything within reason.

[603Racing]

I was looking at the intermediate wire for the O2 sensor on my car. It has a cut in it. This is the wire that runs from the harness to the O2 sensor. You said you replaced the sensor, but what about this wire? I just ordered a new one, but they are saying two weeks before I have it. The two eta's at the local yard didn't have this wire in good condition. I'm thinking this might be the issue on my car... if not I'm looking at the cold start injector next.

[2.5-12]

the extender? I just bypassed that bit with my plugs.

I have not looked much into the harness. that is a fair point though and entirely possible that something got in it while all this maintenance was under way and screwed it up bigtime

I do have a couple of ETA harnesses in my harness box I could try swapping in.

would just hate if that didnt fix it though.