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Used electric cleaner, dielectric grease, car no start

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    Used electric cleaner, dielectric grease, car no start

    what did I do r3v?

    doing some spring cleaning today and cleaned my ICV and another corroded switch off the c191 harness and AFM switch. Cleaned it with electric cleaner then put some dielectric grease on (thought it was as directed).

    now my car won't start. I tried removing some grease and cleaning it out again but it's still dead.

    The ICV is humming so I think that's okay.

    I tried disconnecting the c191 but didn't get it disconnected so I don't think I screwed anything up there.

    thanks

    #2
    Obviously something you pulled apart is causing this no start.

    First things first, figure out if you have fuel and spark. Report back with what you find


    Taylor
    Need a performance chip for you BMW? Shoot me a PM and I'll get you taken care of!!
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      #3
      My guess is this is a problem with C191. Pull back the boots and check the sockets and wires for corrosion.
      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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        #4
        jlevie, my thought is that when I was trying to remove c191 for cleaning I dislodged an already corroded wire and now the injectors aren't getting fuel causing the no start. so maybe I am due for some splicing tomorrow.

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          #5
          car has spark no problem

          car has fuel return from regulator return hose. i listened to the injectors while the car was turning over and can't hear a "tap tap"

          the only switches I messed with were the AFM, IVC, and evaporator purge valve switch, along with C191.

          I took C191 apart today and actually it doesn't appear corroded however one of the female pins is missing. there was already some dielectric grease in there from the PO. So from what i can tell it's pin 2 but my pin doesn't look like the diagram here: http://84.45.115.78/e30zonewiki/index.php/C191

          it has three notches on the side, one of the notches is larger (at the bottom right?) I'm having trouble exactly seeing how the pins line up to the diagram. if reversed it could be pin 5 that's missing, which would explain the injectors not firing.

          Can I replace just that pin without having to rebuild/replace the whole connector. I need to get this done today cause I need my car for work in the morning. Thanks.

          I'm reading random internet c191 replacement strategies but if anyone has a preferred DIY page and parts list I'd love to hear it..

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            #6
            okay another update.

            I took the rubber grommet off each side and looked at the wires.

            The C191 side is fine.

            The side going to the ECU is the problem. The red/white large wire which I think goes into pin 5 (and all injectors) is loose from the back of of the female connector. I pressed the connector together while someone else turned the car over and it started fine. As soon as I let go of the connector the car died.

            So I need to connect the large white/red wire into the bottom of the C191 female connector. I would like to avoid splicing as the connector overall looks good.

            Can I solder the wire and shove it back in there? i'm just looking for the best way to reconnect the wire as the disassembly of the connector doesn't look straight forward. thanks

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              #7
              The mechanical portion of the pin that holds it into the retainer has probably failed. Most often those pins or sockets have flared out arms that lock into the plastic housing. They might be bent, so unbend them.

              If the wire is coming out, it might need to be soldered.

              But yes, do what ever it takes to fix that single pin.
              Owner - Bavarian Restoration
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                #8
                Originally posted by Gregs///M View Post
                The mechanical portion of the pin that holds it into the retainer has probably failed. Most often those pins or sockets have flared out arms that lock into the plastic housing. They might be bent, so unbend them.

                If the wire is coming out, it might need to be soldered.

                But yes, do what ever it takes to fix that single pin.
                hey thanks for the help.

                So I bought a special hobby soldering iron with small attachments and etc, and am having some difficulty getting a good solder. The red/white large wire in the ECU side of pin 5 is loose. the former wire crimp is still on the end of the exposed wire so I think the wire crimp broke off from the female pin and that's why the wire's loose. I've tried several different ways of soldering it but can't get anything to stick. Just curious for any ideas. i can't really remove the pin to solder separately so I'm doing everything way down in the car, soldering by fuel lines, etc, seems kinda stupid lol

                I have a temporary fix by shoving some foil up there and shoving the other wire up with a needle nose. the car starts and drives fine but I really hate driving the car like this. I just can't figure out how to solder the pin to save the otherwise good connector.

                I could easily use 2 butt wire connectors and a spare wire to snip the red/white wire going into pin 5 on the injector side and bypass the switch for just that pin by connecting it to the loose wire on the ECU side but I'd really like to find some way to salvage it.

                any ideas welcome.

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                  #9
                  From what you describe, it sounds like replacement of C191 is required. If you can find a good engine harness at a salvage yard you can splice in the engine side of the connector. Personally, I'd replace both sides with Weather Pack 6 pin connectors, or get new harnesses from BMW. On I race car, I always replace the harnesses. They are pricey but good for another 20 years and eliminate other possible future problems.
                  The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                  Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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                    #10
                    jlevie, as always your valuable input is appreciated.

                    I ordered the weatherpack connector tonight and will replace it in a few days.

                    Hopefully that will last for a couple years until I rebuild the engine and put in a new harness, etc.

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                      #11
                      foil, never leave home with out it. i had a chrysler k car back in the day and left work to a no start car. getting dark, i finally pulled the cap and rotor to find the brass contact on the rotor broke off. went back into work, (tropicana casino) and grabbed some foil. wrapped the foil around the broken piece and bingo, car started right up. got me to the auto parts store and a new rotor.
                      sigpic

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                        #12
                        Check out this recent thread:


                        I ordered two weather pack plugs last week. When I do my head gasket this spring I'm going to replace the c191 plug with the 6 pin weather pack connector.
                        90 325i DD/Track
                        03 Durango 5.9


                        Originally posted by e30mpg
                        It is recommended to get new gasket but this is R3v and we just copper spray that shit......slap biotch on and tighten to tq.

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