Goetze HG leaking after ~15K miles

[lcoleman]

So, I know this is a common problem with the VR gaskets, but I'm wondering if anyone else has had a similar experience.

New head gasket, head was skimmed, new bolts, etc. Plenty of copper spray, block was clean. It didn't start leaking until maybe 10K miles after the change. Right now, it runs great, no oil/coolant mixing, but oil is pissing down the side of the block in the front as well as at the rear. Might have a bit of seepage from the cam and rear main, but it's definitely originating mostly at the HG. It leaves two big spots everywhere I park.

Anyone else had this happen with a "quality" gasket?
Is there anything to do other than yet another head gasket/skim head/new bolts job?
Is there anything else I can do to prevent this next time? I thought I had all the bases covered.

[nando]

new bolts, torqued properly?

that's a really common M20 leak area. I doubt there are very many M20s that don't leak there..

[Rc 415]

Sure it's not the rocker shaft plugs? I've had them leak and thought it was for sure the headgasket

[lcoleman]

New bolts, torqued properly, though I can't say I got exactly 90 degrees each time. I would say close enough. I know it's normal to leak, but this is severe and developed pretty quickly.

I already swapped the rocker shaft plugs. Maybe I should try some OE ones instead of whatever aftermarket brand I got, though. Still, it made no difference. The block is soaked with oil, while the head is (relatively) clean and dry.

Thanks.

[nando]

yeah, you don't have to be exact with a TTY bolt - you just need to reach the flat part of the stress/strain curve.

[Cabriolet]

what brand of bolts?

[timninja]

Actually,i used the same brand and dead serious its been 11k and im having coolant issues because i believe he head gasket is already broken.

[lcoleman]

what brand of bolts?

Looks like OE, assuming ECS doesn't have a typo. They're cheaper than the VR ones.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E30-325...h/11121726478/



Maybe it's just life with an m20, but they can't have done this new. Part of me thinks I should live with the leaks, run it 'til it dies, and cram a b35 in it after.

[AwakenNoMore]

This thread is stressing me out, I just finished rebuilding my engine with a Goatze head gasket. Its bad enough my coolant gauge is a troll, now this thread.

[bmwstudent]

I went with a head gasket and new bolts from bmw, I've only got about 1k on my total rebuild. I'll be keeping an eye on it

[nando]

Actually,i used the same brand and dead serious its been 11k and im having coolant issues because i believe he head gasket is already broken.

most likely the gasket hasn't failed, the more likely explanation is you didn't bleed it properly, or it wasn't installed properly (preparation is key).

[nando]

Looks like OE, assuming ECS doesn't have a typo. They're cheaper than the VR ones.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E30-325...h/11121726478/



Maybe it's just life with an m20, but they can't have done this new. Part of me thinks I should live with the leaks, run it 'til it dies, and cram a b35 in it after.

I doubt it's the brand of bolts - there's nothing wrong with VR headbolts either.

[Cabriolet]

I doubt it's the brand of bolts - there's nothing wrong with VR headbolts either.

I've had one build where a few of the VR bolts stretched.


but if people what security go ARP and be done with it. those bad boys work very well.

[nando]

uh, they're supposed to stretch. that's how TTY works. :p

perhaps they were turned too far or the threads were not totally clean.

ARP are totally unnecessary on anything but a turbo build. For the most part, TTY are a better design.

you know all those giant skyscrapers, buildings and bridges? the bolts are all TTY..

[EatsHondas]

Its bad enough my coolant gauge is a troll, now this thread.

Mine acted the same way, ironically right after I freshened up a new head and threw it on. I pulled the cluster, removed the grounding nut for the fuel and coolant temp gauges, cleaned them with contact cleaner and a toothbrush, and put 'em both back on. Tight. Super steady coolant gauge now. I'd definitely try that if you haven't already.

What is your gauge acting like? Mine would show normal temp, and then it would wiggle constantly and jump into the red zone without warning. Sometimes tapping the cluster would make it behave, sometimes it wouldn't.