Identify an E head vs a super eta head?

[LateFan]

Hi -

I'm looking at a clean looking '86 ES coupe. What seemed to be an unmolested car of course has some drama involved. WHY are they all like that?

We were told the teenaged daughter lost a belt, wasn't paying attention to the gauge or the engine, and cooked the head. The seller thinks she remembers a cracked head, which was replaced in 2010 (by 'someone' in town - trying to track the mechanic down).

So, there's evidence of recent work. New clamps here and there. New fan clutch and bolts. Very shiny radiator for 175k. Conti timing belt sticker 2010 at 170k. Thermostat and fan clutch boxes in the trunk.

So, my questions before we buy this thing -

1. Are these huge red flags? Or is a competent repair by a competent mechanic possible? Would you ever weld an M20 head to repair?

2. I'm reading past threads about 2.7 strokers and that kind of thing. Could they have put the wrong used head from another year, like an '88 super eta, on this engine and messed with the compression ratio etc?

3. How can I identify a standard E vs a super eta head from the exterior? Are there markings?

It cranked awhile after sitting for 1 1/2 months. Ran well after warming up. Water temp kept climbing until about 3/4 on the gauge, but no higher. I've read here about the gauge ground nut, thermostat sticking etc, but it's a real risk buying a mystery engine.

Thanks -

[LateFan]

Oh...I think I just learned something.....

A super eta head is just an "i" head, correct?

So they could only have replaced with a stock e head or welded and repaired the existing. Do I have that right?

All other questions still out there.
Thanks -

[StereoInstaller1]

ETA motors are a dime a dozen...until you need one.

[digger]

i wouldn't use a welded head that cracked in the cam tunnel....

if it was a regular Eta they could have put a SETA head ontop. The seta head is the same basic casting as an M20B25 (i.e the I and SETA head is marked xxxxx885 on the outside on the inlet side IIRC) but the cam, valve springs etc differ between SETA and M20B25

[jlevie]

1. Are these huge red flags? Or is a competent repair by a competent mechanic possible? Would you ever weld an M20 head to repair?

Those are not "huge red flags". Competent repair puts the engine back into good condition. Depending on where a crack is and how it was welded determines how successful such a repair will be.

2. I'm reading past threads about 2.7 strokers and that kind of thing. Could they have put the wrong used head from another year, like an '88 super eta, on this engine and messed with the compression ratio etc?

Using a SuperETA or M20B25 head on the engine is a possibility, but if done correctly with the M20B25 intake, AFM, injectors, engine harness, CPS, and DME it would be successful.

3. How can I identify a standard E vs a super eta head from the exterior? Are there markings?

If the head is from a SuperETA or M20B25 the casting number will end in 885.

[LateFan]

Good info, all - thanks.

I am sure no one has updated to i spec head, valve train, and intake. They're not car people. I need to determine if they welded the head, put a used head on, or rebuilt a used head and put it on.

If this work was done well, what would explain the temp gauge climbing like that? Cheap aftermarket thermostat? Gauge ground?

It appears to have gotten a timing belt. Who would have put it back together without a water pump if it had cooling issues? So let's assume that's replaced.

[digger]

pull the rocker cover to see if there is evidence of welding under the cam. welding in this area is a temporary fix. the alloy is difficult to weld and you will recrack at the weld toe eventually it is just a matter of time, in your part of the world where heads are common an uncracked head is better piece of mind. welding plus aluminum that sees significant stress is never good for durability unless designed that way from the start, it is quite simply the worst process you can use.

[LateFan]

Trying to decide whether to buy it for $1200 without pulling the thing apart first. But yeah, I need to see in there.

Is this the only casting mark location? Is it hard to see under the intake runners?

[EatsHondas]

I have an "i," but if you look through the circled area from the same angle as the line going to it, you should be able to see "85". If you have a light and screw driver to poke a few lines out of the way, you should be able to see the entire "885" (or lack thereof) without removing any parts.

[LateFan]

Great! Thank you.