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    #16
    WTF?! took off the timing chain, lined up all the marks and put it all back together. and it idles better. not good. but sounds better. but now i get a pop sound coming from my intake manifold/head area?!?!?!

    keepin it real since 1990

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      #17
      Make sure none of your wires are damaged and are arcing

      -NICK

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        #18
        After installing the timing belt it is essential to to rotate the engine through two revolutions, stopping when the mark on the crank hub lines up with the V notch in the lower timing cover. At that point the cam is in time if the mark on the cam sprocket is lined up with the mark on the head. That is the only way to be sure the belt is on correctly. Once timing is verified you lock down the tensioner. Until then it must be free to move against the spring.

        Is that how you checked the timing?
        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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          #19
          Originally posted by jlevie View Post
          After installing the timing belt it is essential to to rotate the engine through two revolutions, stopping when the mark on the crank hub lines up with the V notch in the lower timing cover. At that point the cam is in time if the mark on the cam sprocket is lined up with the mark on the head. That is the only way to be sure the belt is on correctly. Once timing is verified you lock down the tensioner. Until then it must be free to move against the spring.

          Is that how you checked the timing?
          i checked it the exact way you mentioned above. i pulled the spark wires on each cylinder as the car was running and cyl. 1&2 werent getting spark. checked the spark cables and they were sparking and the spark plug was wet so it was getting gas. wtf?!?!?

          im getting a timing light -_-

          keepin it real since 1990

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            #20
            just took everything off and all the marks lined up perfectly even after cranking it and rotating it manually a shit load of times. what is the gear next to the crankshaft? does it do anything?

            keepin it real since 1990

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              #21
              Intermediate gear.

              At this point id look at your plug wiring, cap/rotor as possible issues. Also make sure you plugs are gapped correctly, had a friend drop one and not re-check the gap...turns out there wasnt one after he dropped it.
              -Build http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=295277

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                #22
                hey flg nice charger. i had a 73 340 in high school. anyway i remembered i briefly attempted to adjust my valves but quit after the second valve (cyl 1&2 intakes) could i of waffleswaffleswaffleswafflesed something up there or would that not cause this type of problem?

                keepin it real since 1990

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                  #23
                  Wait...go again. You started to adjust the valves, but stopped after the second? I would re-adjust all the valves according to Bentley. Remember that your car will run rough for a bit until the ECU adapts to the new settings.

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                    #24
                    yeah i only did the first two, kind of half assed them. but i went back and re-adjusted them, hopefully it fixed it *fingers crossed*:D

                    keepin it real since 1990

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by samurai pizza cats View Post
                      it keeps telling me im low on oil but i checked the dipstick and its fine.
                      Check your oil level sensor according to the Bentley's directions. The sensor is on the oil pan on the driver's side of the engine, close to the alternator. When they go bad or the wire(s) running to it grounds out, it can cause your low oil level check light to stay on even if your actual oil level is fine. If the dipstick says you're good, you're good.

                      Your E30 Bible
                      1989 325i Lachssilber Sedan
                      5-Speed Swapped
                      M30B35 Swapped
                      MegaSquirt MS3X

                      1987 325i Lachssilber Sedan
                      260k OEM Automatic Daily Baby

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                        #26
                        thanks man, but after i checked the timing the second time and put it all back together it turned off :D. about to start her up again. third times the chram right? wish me luck!:neutral:

                        keepin it real since 1990

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                          #27
                          Hey I was on the same boat as you.. Put her all back together and she was rough. Well then it was like 8pm and I remembered I set it like a tooth off cuz I couldn't get the belt on.. So in the garage she goes. Did it all and in fact it was off a tooth..
                          Well started her up ran way smoother but still was rough.
                          I had vaccum leaks like crazy.. So for me everything went to shit at once kinda. So got the vaccum leaks figured out and now it runs much smoother. Also... I don't think this will have anything to do with it.. But did you bleed to cooling system properly?
                          sigpic


                          1989 BMW 325is (SOLD)
                          1990 BMW 325i Brilliantrot (SOLD)
                          1992 BMW 325IC (SOLD)
                          1991 BMW 318IS (STOLEN!)

                          2017 BMW M2 (WEEKEND WARRIOR)
                          (GRIGIO TELESTO RESPRAY, FULL BOLT ONS, TUNE-HPFP AND TURBO UPGRADE COMING AFTER WARRANTY IS DONE)
                          1989 BMW 325IC (PROJECT(
                          2002 FORD ESCAPE (DAILY)
                          2001 BMW 330CI (FOR SALE SOON)



                          "R3v, being a bunch of cheap bastards that would try to negotiate a discount on a free engine,"

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                            #28
                            nope just drained the cooling from the drain plug on the bottom of the radiator and filled it up with new coolant. and i put her back together and now she wont even stay on unless i give it gas. :x

                            also how do you know you were only one tooth off? does that mean that the mark is only off by one tooth? because me and my cousin looked at it and all the marks were dead on. both on the cam and crank

                            keepin it real since 1990

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                              #29
                              If your timing is correct and your car will not stay on until you give it gas then I think you should look for vacuum leaks.

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                                #30

                                keepin it real since 1990

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