E to I swap running like poop

[dougie30]

Hey guys i just finished my e to i swap and i driven it about 150~ miles and it runs like garbage.

1) If i give it throttle in neutral it boggs down to almost stalling then revs back up.

2) At right around 2000 rpms it sound like its skipping or misfiring a bit.

3) I drove it today and was in 3rd gear and all of a sudden it revved up to maybe 2500rpms real quick then went back to normal.

Im really stressing about this because im leaving for school in about a week and this is my form of transportation.

Also just to clarify I have pretty much replaced everything on the car so im thinking i messed something up somewhere.

[jlevie]

Did the swap include an M20B25 AFM? If not that, replacing that will be the first action. Hopefully you got a complete M20B25 engine to include intake, injectors, all sensors, engine harness, and DME. If that is the case the first diagnostics should be a measurement of fuel rail pressure and a smoke test to look for intake leaks.

[dougie30]

Yes I have the correct afm, harness, intake, m50 injectors and iv tried the 153 and 173 ecu.

Two things I have in mind are, I never gaped my spark plugs to .07 and I couldn't order the correct valve cover to throttle hose so i caped the throttle where the hose would go and I have a breather on the valve cover.

Would this effect the engine?

[dougie30]

also is it possible the hiccup i experienced could have been my timing belt skipping a tooth??

[squidmaster]

I know you said it's the right AFM but it really sounds like the AFM to me. Is there another one you could test out?
Do you have a multimeter you could use to test the AFM? If you don't then I highly recommend you get one. You could use that to test out the CPS and distributor as well.

[dougie30]

Yea I have a volt meter to test the afm. Is there a diy or something on how to test it? Also how do I test my distributor with a volt meter?

[squidmaster]

you need to test the resistance on the AFM, so a normal voltmeter won't work.

You connect positive to pin 3 and thruput to pin 1 I believe. should go smoothly from 2.2kOhm to 2.7kOhm, as you move the needle from one side to the other, at around 75'F
Now that's just all from the top of my head, so you can google "test m20 afm" to see what comes up to check my work

(looking from the top)

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[dougie30]

Ok so I found out I have a vacuum leak. I covered the airbox with my hand and the engine continued to run like nothing happened.

It sounds almost like its coming from near my break booster?

Also after that hiccup I mentioned earlier, my car sou ds completely different... almost like a Subaru. Could a vacuum leak cause this to happen?

[FLG]

Doug, this my old m20?

Can you have a smoke test done to check for vac leaks? Also the t-belt was almost new, doubt you have an issue with it.

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[dougie30]

Yeas same m20. I did the hg and timing belt after I bought it from you so I know that is fine.

I don't know of any place that does a smoke test around me bit I'm gonna try the carb cleaner method to try and find the leak.

[squidmaster]

check the plastic elbow to your brake booster, I've had them crack on me before, and the generic ones they sell at autozone don't fit!

[Regnar75]

dougie30 was this resolved? i just noticed your a RI guy as well.

[TG Goose]

subaru sound is usually a broken rocker?

[squidmaster]

Or running on fewer cylinders

[FLG]

He did get it up and running. Forgot what the issue was, I'm sure he'll chime in eventually.

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