Rocker Arm replacement, what am I forgetting?

[Earendil]

Not the most fun question to answer, but I thought I might see if anyone would give me a second pair of eyes.

I'm probably going to replace a broken rocker arm for my Dad, and am compiling a list of parts. I intend on removing the head. Is there anything else I should do while I'm in there? I've been looking at RealOEM diagrams and I *think* I have everything, but it's been a few years since I removed the head on my own car and I don't recall what all I replaced.

Edit: a second separate list would include "you're likely to break this item, so go ahead and have a spare standing by". That is why I'm replacing all nuts and half a handful of head exhaust studs standing by.

1 - Head Gasket Set (valve cover, intake/exhaust gaskets)
1 - Cylinder Head Bolt Set, (14 Bolts Per Set)
1 - Water Pump (Single Outlet) with composite impeller
12 - Nut, 7 mm with Washer - Intake Manifold to head
1 - Valve Stem Seal Kit, 325i/is/iC (thru 08/92)
1 - Timing Belt Kit
12 - Rocker Arm, 325/e/es/i/is/iC/iX (1987-91)
12 - Copper Lock Nut - M8 for Exhaust manifold to head
1 - O-Ring for Oil Return Tube
6 - Copper Lock Nut, 10mm Exhaust Flange - Exhahst manifold to downpipe.
1 - Camshaft Seal, Intermediate Shaft Seal
1 - Cam Flange O-Ring
6 - Exhaust Stud, Head to Manifold, 8 x 40mm - Just in case a few break.
1 - Gasket, Heater Flange to Head

Additionally, we'll probably have the head resurfaced, but I don't have a clue what that costs. Any ballparks?
What about getting the valves ground, is that one of those "should do" or should I leave them be unless we know something is wrong?

Thanks!

[dnguyen1963]

Why not go with a metal blade water pump?

[Earendil]

Why not go with a metal blade water pump?

The last time I looked into it the internet seemed rather split on whether to go metal or not. I was leaning towards composite but flipped a coin and ended up putting a composite one in my own car, which has worked out just fine.

[Gregs///M]

The physical properties of coolant is that it does have some abrasiveness which can lead to a quicker wear rate than the metal impeller. I would never go with a plastic or composite impeller water pump. The WP is one of the most important components of your engine and should be very robust to give you a piece of mind.

Also, the cylinder head does not need to be removed from the engine to replace a broken rocker arm. I've done it without lifting or removing the engine. Just remove the radiator, fan, shroud, and timing belt sections. The AC condenser must also be removed OUT OF THE WAY, but can be done so without disconnecting. I recommend removing the front bumper and moving it away so that the rocker rods can be pulled outward and all rockers swapped out.

The rest of your parts sound sufficient to me. GL

[Earendil]

The physical properties of coolant is that it does have some abrasiveness which can lead to a quicker wear rate than the metal impeller. I would never go with a plastic or composite impeller water pump. The WP is one of the most important components of your engine and should be very robust to give you a piece of mind.

Yes, it is very important. I've seen a few arguments against composite impellers, but not once have I seen a picture or heard someone claim that the impeller fins were worn to nubs. The concern with a metal one would be that it's potentially hard on the bearings. Bearing failure is a common problem with water pumps, and anyone that can be done to slow that failure is a good thing. In the end, as long as a good water pump from a legitimate manufacturer is chosen than the water pump should be replaced before the bearings go our or the coolant wears the fins down.

Also, the cylinder head does not need to be removed from the engine to replace a broken rocker arm. I've done it without lifting or removing the engine. Just remove the radiator, fan, shroud, and timing belt sections. The AC condenser must also be removed OUT OF THE WAY, but can be done so without disconnecting. I recommend removing the front bumper and moving it away so that the rocker rods can be pulled outward and all rockers swapped out.

I've read about that too. When I replaced my valve springs I removed my head, and had to take a wooden dowel and a very large rubber mallet and pound the rocker shafts out. Had to knock them hard enough to still dent the end caps. His engine has upwards of 350K on it so I'm not counting on his shafts just sliding out. Plus, it'll be a lot easier to inspect the valves and springs for damage with the head indoors, rather than outside in the lovely NW October weather :)

[jlevie]

Definitely have the head checked for warp, though in my experience every used head I've seen has enough warp to justify a minimal surfacing cut. And have the valves ground while the head is off. I've no problems with the OE pumps with composite impellers, which are not the same thing as the plastic impeller pumps used or early 90's BMW's.

You can normally reuse the intake manifold nuts. The rest of the list looks good.

[jeffnhiscars]

The oil return tube requires 2 o rings. They don't call it the bitch tube for nothing :)

[8oost0ne]

I've done this without removing the head!

[Earendil]

Definitely have the head checked for warp, though in my experience every used head I've seen has enough warp to justify a minimal surfacing cut. And have the valves ground while the head is off. I've no problems with the OE pumps with composite impellers, which are not the same thing as the plastic impeller pumps used or early 90's BMW's.

You can normally reuse the intake manifold nuts. The rest of the list looks good.

We're going to try and get the head surfaced, especially when it has so many miles on it. That does shoot any hope of getting it done in a weekend though.

As for the valve grinding, I'm rather unsure exactly what that entails and thus don't know how hard it is for a machinist on a scale from 1-10. i.e. how careful should I choose my machine shop? And are their specs they will want to know before I drop them off? Lastly, does grinding negate the need to keep track of which valve goes with which cylinder? I remember when I did mine before I was told to make sure they go back with the same cylinder.

The oil return tube requires 2 o rings. They don't call it the bitch tube for nothing :)

Doh! I totally thought I typed two, and sure enough it isn't showing up. Thanks for pointing that out :)

[jlevie]

The valves and seats are machine ground so all come out the same. Once ground a valve doesn't not have to back to the position it was removed from. Grinding the valves is only slightly more involved than surfacing the head. Assuming the equipment is in good condition and the tech takes reasonable care the results will be good. Partly as a check on the grinding job and partly to gain a better seal, I lap the valves after grinding before I reassemble the head. If there is a problem with the grind job it becomes immediately obvious.

[RockingM]

well this thread answered my question.

I found a broken rocker arm as I was adjusting the valves just now. Happened to have a set of E rocker arms and put on on the exhaust side.

I think the rocker arm was broken when the head was worked but who knows, I can tell that if the slot is not turned the right way on the adjustment bolt when it is tightened it can break the ear on that side of the rocker arm which is what I suspect happened.

I was in luck, it was exhaust valve number one rocker so I just slid the
rocker shaft back enough to slide the new one on. I'm glad I found it will the engine was hanging on the sling.