3.2L stroker mains bolts or studs?

[doktor_b]

getting down to the nitty-gritty in this build. the block and head are at the machine shop and i'm getting ready for assembly this weekend (i hope). the IE h-beam rods come with ARP hardware, and i have ARP head studs.

what i don't have yet, is the hardware for the mains. should i just buy some new OEM bolts? or spend triple the cost for ARP studs?

this is an NA build that won't see more than ~7200 rpm.

TIA

[digger]

OEM main bolts will be fine, having said that i still went with ARP though...lol

rod bolts are way more important and you have those....

[SkiFree]

OEM main bolts will be fine, having said that i still went with ARP though...lol

rod bolts are way more important and you have those....

Haha, I'm of the same opinion. New oem main bolts will be fine, but I also went with the ARP's for extra piece of mind.

If he's got the IE H-beams they run arp2000's.

[Madhatter]

just make sure you send whatever your choice is to the machine shop so they can bolt the caps down with those fasteners when you have it line bored and checked for the new crank. Come across one motor before that had to go back to be machined again because the clearances changed when different fasteners were fitted.

[shadowracer]

As madhatter said, my machinist told me you want to line bore the caps because the arp studs do change the clearances... so I had it done.

...on a side note my studs came with a paper recommending the line bore as well.

[ForcedFirebird]

ARP also makes bolts that aren't as pricey as the studs, but will still need an aline bore since they have a higher torque rating. The main bolts in an m20 are not TTY, they are re-useable, but are also cheap insurance to buy new.

[tinkerputzer]

Oem bolts are fine. A lot of people re-use them if they look ok, myself included. They aren't tty bolts so it's ok. They should be torqued to spec when the cylinders are being bored.

[doktor_b]

thanks for all the input, guys! i really appreciate it.