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Best stock-ish fuel management for a 2.8L stroker?

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    Best stock-ish fuel management for a 2.8L stroker?

    I'm putting together a 2.8L M20 right now, and I'm looking for a budget-friendly, stock-ish fueling solution. I've heard that the Mark D chips are the good, but I tried to email him to see if he had something for my application, but I never heard back. I've also heard that the M30 AFM and 19# injectors are one way to go, but just curious if others have done something I'm not thinking of.

    Here's the specs of the engine:

    9.5:1 2.8L bottom end ("i" pistons, decked block, M52B28 crank, 2.7L "e" rods)
    Ported and polished head
    HD rockers
    272 cam

    Thanks

    #2
    sssquid.com
    My 325iX DIY Threads:

    Front Wheel Bearing Replacement

    325iX Rear Subframe Bushings and MUCH more w/pics!

    325iX Steering Rack Replacement, Suspension, & Oil Pan job w/pics!


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      #3
      i would do a MAF conversion and someone who does custom chips ask this squid man
      The AFM hurts a stroker even the M30 one. i had a custom tune M30 AFM setup and a standalone with generic ignition timing made gobs more midrange. replace the OEM airbox at the same time with a well sealed unit and you are well ahead
      89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

      new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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        #4
        I have a similar build as you and went with SSSquid. Message him about your build.


        Originally posted by StereoInstaller1
        My expectation is an immediate 5 speed swap. Autos suck more than a 50 year old whore.

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          #5
          SSSquid, Jesse is super helpful and will do what ever he can.

          Comment


            #6
            I'm waiting for my ssquid chip to come in the mail today as I am doing the break in on the same setup right now as the op. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
            The car now is kind of sluggish because of the increase in displacement and 272 cam so I've been really easy on it. However you can feel with proper fueling and timing it wants to go. I am very happy with the results so far from my build. I'm dying waiting for the USPS guy to come by haha.
            Just a side note for the build. Adjust the valves after you torque the head down. After you torque it down the head will compress a little and tight in the gap. I didn't and wound up running the car for a few mins with a very tight gap and had I not noticed this probably would have wound up wiping out the cam lobes.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by NJ2.5rser View Post
              After you torque it down the head will compress a little and tight in the gap.
              I don't understand and/or I don't think this is correct.
              Originally posted by Andy.B
              Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
              1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
              ~~~~~~~~~~
              I was born on 3/25…
              ~~~~~~~~~~

              Comment


                #8
                always check the valve clearances after a rebuild and having run it for a while
                89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by NJ2.5rser View Post
                  Just a side note for the build. Adjust the valves after you torque the head down. After you torque it down the head will compress a little and tight in the gap. I didn't and wound up running the car for a few mins with a very tight gap and had I not noticed this probably would have wound up wiping out the cam lobes.

                  LOL.

                  M20 is not a pushrod motor ! Your valve clearances would stay the same even if your head was on the workbench.
                  Lorin


                  Originally posted by slammin.e28
                  The M30 is God's engine.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Ether-D View Post
                    I don't understand and/or I don't think this is correct.
                    My experience is that the clearance closes up approximately .005" after installing the head. Couldn't figure out why my idle was so rough.

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                      #11
                      I have run the Alpina B3 software in the past with good results.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I've been running the chip from sssquid for only a day now and I'm more than pleased with it. Car is very easy going in low rpm to save mpgs but once I get on it the car takes off. Made a huge difference from stock tune of course and idles a lot smoother. Good customer service and good product. Comes in a cool little package too haha. Would recommend it to anyone and for the price it's hard to beat. I would say go for his chip for your 2.8l you won't be disappointed.


                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by LJ851 View Post
                          LOL.



                          M20 is not a pushrod motor ! Your valve clearances would stay the same even if your head was on the workbench.

                          In "theory" that sounds very logical and but not always the case. I thought the same until I experienced the change in gap myself.


                          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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