Can someone measure a late M20B25 pistons for me?

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  • 16vCorey
    Member
    • Jan 2013
    • 96

    #1

    Can someone measure a late M20B25 pistons for me?

    If anyone has a loose piston laying around, I need to know the distance from the flat spot in the picture to the wrist pin, and it has to be a short skirt piston.
  • LJ851
    R3V OG
    • Nov 2010
    • 7918

    #2
    Can you narrow "flat spot" down ?

    Which part of the piston?
    Lorin


    Originally posted by slammin.e28
    The M30 is God's engine.

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    • 16vCorey
      Member
      • Jan 2013
      • 96

      #3
      Click image for larger version

Name:	$_57.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	36.3 KB
ID:	7165722Sure. Here's a pic of the area I'm talking about.

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      • Madhatter
        E30 Modder
        • Oct 2004
        • 966

        #4
        what are you using the measurement for?
        Just a little project im working on
        - http://www.lse30.com -

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        • digger
          R3V Elite
          • Nov 2005
          • 5928

          #5
          its gonna be 5mm
          89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

          new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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          • 16vCorey
            Member
            • Jan 2013
            • 96

            #6
            Originally posted by digger
            its gonna be 5mm
            There's way more than 5mm of material there. I need a more precise measurement than that.

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            • 16vCorey
              Member
              • Jan 2013
              • 96

              #7
              Originally posted by Madhatter
              what are you using the measurement for?
              I'm building a 2.8L stroker. The pistons I have are the early long skirt pistons, so I turned the skirts off of them. I've turned almost .4" off of the counterwieghts on the 2.8L crank, but it's still rubbing on the flat spot I circled, and I've heard that .3" should be enough. I need to see if the material is thicker there on my pistons than on short skirt pistons, because if it is, then I need short skirts. If it's not, I just need to cut more off of the crank. I don't want to cut too much off of the crank, because they get hard to balance if you do that.

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              • digger
                R3V Elite
                • Nov 2005
                • 5928

                #8
                Originally posted by 16vCorey
                There's way more than 5mm of material there. I need a more precise measurement than that.
                the one i had measured at 5mm 0.2" with verniers depth gauge from flat to the pin surface.......ill find another style if i have one lying around

                if you have taken that much off the crank C/W and it rubs there something seems wrong. the one below the CW not touched but a 135mm rod.

                11-12mm off the C/W and 5mm shorter rod should clear easily

                Last edited by digger; 05-22-2014, 01:25 PM.
                89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                Comment

                • 16vCorey
                  Member
                  • Jan 2013
                  • 96

                  #9
                  Yeah, the early i pistons have a weird raised spot that's the issue. I think some short skirt i pistons are all I need and it will clear with no problem.

                  Comment

                  • digger
                    R3V Elite
                    • Nov 2005
                    • 5928

                    #10
                    Originally posted by 16vCorey
                    Yeah, the early i pistons have a weird raised spot that's the issue. I think some short skirt i pistons are all I need and it will clear with no problem.
                    I’ll check but i have early and old pistons KS and mahle and the only differences i noticed were the skirt. i also have a 9.7:1 b25 piston.

                    What is the radius of the C/W after you machined them? they start at around 73mm from memory which.

                    So doing the math’s with b28 crank, 130 mm rod

                    130 mm – 84/2 mm = 88 mm

                    So with a 73mm radius you have 88 mm – 73 mm = 15mm to fit the pin radius, throat thickness and some clearance

                    Stock pin is 22 mm (11mm radius) so with 5 mm throat the interference is

                    15-11-5= - 1 mm between the piston and C/W

                    So as a minimum you would need to take of about 5mm off the C/W to give 4mm clearance
                    89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                    new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                    Comment

                    • 16vCorey
                      Member
                      • Jan 2013
                      • 96

                      #11
                      5mm is probably right. Here's my measurements of an eta piston and an early i piston with the skirt shaved. There's a raised spot on the early piston that the late piston doesn't have, plus it looks like it's a bit thicker in general to begin with. So including the raised spot, it's they're about 8mm from the wrist pin and barely scrape. 5mm should clear just fine.




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