Temporary Alternator Delete

[Panici]

I agree completely on slapping in a new regulator for the time being.

That said, what's wrong with leaving the dead alternator in place and just driving? The parasitic loss from the alternator itself is negligible, I don't see a downside as long as the actual alt/bearings haven't exploded. The upside is that you don't have to fool with shorter belts and the lack of a tensioner.

I pulled the alternator before I knew anything about the voltage regulator.

I've been running around with the one from my parts car (which also doesn't work, go figure). Also have been using an older, smaller battery, hooked up with some jumper cables. I didn't want to deep cycle my main battery to death.
Also meant that if I ran out of power, I could just hook up my big normal battery and get back home.

That little battery did pretty well, even at night with headlights on.

I just picked up my alt from an auto electric shop today. $28 to solder in some new brushes. I would have done it myself, but I couldn't find any brushes locally, and time was an issue.


Would have been better to replace the whole voltage regulator, but shipping and parts are expensive in Canada, and I needed this done quickly.

Putting it in tomorrow.

[lcoleman]

I agree completely on slapping in a new regulator for the time being.

That said, what's wrong with leaving the dead alternator in place and just driving? The parasitic loss from the alternator itself is negligible, I don't see a downside as long as the actual alt/bearings haven't exploded. The upside is that you don't have to fool with shorter belts and the lack of a tensioner.

[Regnar75]

Great little picture here, saved it for future reference thanks

[TobyB]

there's nothing really to rebuild on the inside.

...except all the rectifier diodes, which, I admit, are usually pretty bulletproof...

They do fail occasionally, tho.

t

[kickinindian]

sometimes it could even be just the brushes if your handy with solder guns just unsolder old brushes pop new ones in and my ran just fine. i think brushes are like 5 bucks or less.

[StereoInstaller1]

I repeat, how would I know if the voltage regulator is the problem?

I'm not of the mindset to throw parts at a problem

First, a new VR is part of a rebuild, as it also has new brushes.

Second, a VR is less than whatever tomfoolery you are planning....and has a 99% chance of fixing the issue.

Best of luck with whatever you do

Luke

[DeckDub]

That could very well be your problem, that's exactly what mine looked like when it went bad in my 87.

Only when mine went it was overcharging at about 16.3ish volts which is no bueno

[Panici]

I threw on the alternator from my parts car ('86 325e). Although they have different part numbers, the mounts are the same.

The main difference is how they ground. The alternator from my parts car is mounted on rubber bushings, and I had to run a separate ground wire from the back of the alt to the chassis ground.

Turns out the alt from my parts car is bad as well, but (I theorize) for a different reason. With the spare alternator, the battery light on my dash for exciter status does not light when the key is in run. I assume this means there's no ground path for the light. I didn't check, but I assume it's either at 12v because of a short in the alternator, or floating for some reason.

I've been driving around on battery power, so far with great success.

I'm going to take the voltage regulator out of the original Alt, and see if it's worn and the cause of my problems.


EDIT: Here's the voltage regulator out of the original Alt. Think this is the culprit?

[nando]

how temporary? you know it's not going to last more than a couple hours, right?

seconded on the regulator. there aren't any moving parts on the alternator, unless the bearings are gone or it's been on fire there's nothing really to rebuild on the inside. the main wear part is going to be the brushes on the regulator.

[Panici]

Usually a voltage regulator is all it's going to take. 2 screws, and you are back in business. I would pull it out, replace the regulator, and put in new bushings as well. Maybe even get a new tensioner if the teeth in yours is bad. All this is simple, and cheap.

I repeat, how would I know if the voltage regulator is the problem?

I'm not of the mindset to throw parts at a problem

[dewme5]

Usually a voltage regulator is all it's going to take. 2 screws, and you are back in business. I would pull it out, replace the regulator, and put in new bushings as well. Maybe even get a new tensioner if the teeth in yours is bad. All this is simple, and cheap.

[efficient]

Just go buy a new voltage regulator, get back on the road in 15 minutes

i did this and it didnt work for me. i ended up buying a new alternator

[Panici]

Just go buy a new voltage regulator, get back on the road in 15 minutes

Please elaborate. How would I know if the voltage regulator is the problem?

[StereoInstaller1]

Just go buy a new voltage regulator, get back on the road in 15 minutes

[nrubenstein]

So easy. Thanks!


Suggestions for dealing with lack of tensioner?

That's the un-fun part. You'll have to lever it on there without damaging anything.

It'll probably be easiest to unbolt the pulley, but it won't be fun to get back on. Remember that without a tensioner, it'll need to be a slightly small belt. The good news is that the water pump is not a heavy load, so it should not need to be *that* tight.

As an alternative, I'd look at picking up a used alternator off craigslist or similar. You can still get it or yours rebuilt, and it probably won't actually cost much more than buying the belt.