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    #16
    not really, it would be nice to have at least ~200hp at the crank, and more torque, say 220ft-lb. I don't think I'll have too much trouble getting there, Jordan managed almost 200whp with good headwork and proper tuning. My head isn't as wild so I'm not expecting to match that.

    some more progress:




    new tranny to go with motor:


    :)
    Last edited by nando; 10-13-2010, 05:11 AM.
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      #17
      Holy shit, that thing is DIRTY! It'll look niiice cleaned up! :)
      - Sean Hayes

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        #18
        yeah, tell me about it! I'm going to have to go through all my tools and clean them up before I can use them for putting it back together - everything is nasty, dirty, grimey. a HUGE chunk of something fell in the breather tube and into the oil pan, what a mess. good thing for parts washers!
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          #19
          looking good man, the block in my ix parts car was similar, it had like .5 inch of gunk on it. Can't wait to see how it turns out.

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            #20
            Im glad your happy with the motor and drivetrain. I was confident that the drivetrain of that ix was in decent shape.
            Back to my roots

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              #21
              Originally posted by FifeDog236
              Im glad your happy with the motor and drivetrain. I was confident that the drivetrain of that ix was in decent shape.
              yeah, the body itself was rusting away around everything, but things like the transfer case are in excellent shape - the front driveshaft splines looked new!

              got a little further yesterday, pulled off the oil pump/pickup, pistons, etc:




              only thing left for me to do is remove the crank nut and bearing caps. Any suggestions for that? I tried wedging a peice of wood between the crank and block, but it just smashed/broke. is the crank nut reverse thread? I haven't tried a hammer or penetrating oil/heat yet, but I need to keep the crank from rotating first. after that I can bring it to the machine shop..
              Last edited by nando; 06-04-2006, 06:34 PM.
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                #22
                Originally posted by nando
                yeah, the body itself was rusting away around everything, but things like the transfer case are in excellent shape - the front driveshaft splines looked new!

                got a little further yesterday, pulled off the oil pump/pickup, pistons, etc:




                only thing left for me to do is remove the crank nut and bearing caps. Any suggestions for that? I tried wedging a peice of wood between the crank and block, but it just smashed/broke. is the crank nut reverse thread? I haven't tried a hammer or penetrating oil/heat yet, but I need to keep the crank from rotating first. after that I can bring it to the machine shop..
                I think i cheated...I used an impact gun. hehe

                That crank looks to be in really good shape!! NICE! :D
                - Sean Hayes

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                  #23
                  I expect >185rwhp from you nando. You didnt do a baseline did you?

                  As time went on, the factory developed the car each year, making it faster, more comfortable, and capable of handling at higher speeds.
                  You don’t want this. You want the trickiest, most dangerous, oldest model you can find. Only then can you prove to the world that you’re a man.

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                    #24
                    I haven't, not sure if it would be worth it though - don't know of any AWD dynos in the immediate area either. I still could, I haven't torn apart anything in my car yet (this block is from a parts car). I plan on doing some 1/4 mile runs as a sort of a basline, but I want to dyno the new motor eventually as well.
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                      #25
                      got the crank nut free (wasn't that bad, just needed a friend to weigh my engine stand down + 4 foot cheater pipe) and the hub off, but for the life of me I can't get the intermediate shaft pulley out. It should just pull off the shaft like the crank hub right? It must be rusted on there good, because I warped it trying to pull it out. put some penetrating oil on it for now and will try again tomorrow..
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                        #26
                        Originally posted by madjurgen
                        I expect >185rwhp from you nando. You didnt do a baseline did you?
                        awhp :)


                        Keep it slideways!!

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                          #27
                          I may do a basline with just the rear wheels connected.. we'll see. one month go go until I have to get all this shit together, hopefully I can get it all done!
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                            #28
                            finally got the intermediate shaft pulley out, it was rusted on there real good. let it soak in degreaser overnight, hit it up with a torch and it was still pretty tough. when it finally broke free it made a loud "snap" noise! I need a new one because it's shaped like a taco now, but that's no big deal.

                            after that was out of my way, I was able to disassemble the rest of the block. the next step is to take it to the machine shop, hopefully by thursday :)





                            Last edited by nando; 10-13-2010, 05:12 AM.
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                              #29
                              You pulled out the whole intermediate shaft?

                              Is that something I should change out too? I never removed mine, and my engine guy never said anything about mine. I wasn't sure how to remove it, and assumed it required a press to get out.

                              I just got mine back from the engine shop - too lazy to post pics (may or may not get some up tonight). I wanted the block to be dark gray...but I guess they misunderstood, and made it just...gray. So, lets just say - it's almost identical to my car, and I'll definately see if there's a leak. ;) No worries.

                              Block looks awesome though. I can't wait to see how yours turns out, nando!


                              But yea, let me know what you think about the intermediate shaft.

                              Also - how am I suppose to mount the crank scraper/baffle? I bought IE's baffle, since I wasn't using anything major - they said it would work with an 81mm crank. But, it looks like it just mounts between the block and the pan - do I need TWO oil pan gaskets, or what?? lol
                              - Sean Hayes

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                                #30
                                you don't need to replace it, I just didn't want to leave stuff in there for when they clean the block. it's not hard to get out, you just need a puller to remove the pulley, which you have to do if you are taking out the crank anyway. after that all that holds it in are 2 screws.

                                I don't know what to tell you on the scraper, my engine doesn't even use an oil pan gasket. I also bought a scraper but I don't think I will be able to use it because of the ix pickup tube & sump.
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