I'm getting ready to bolt on my freshly rebuilt 731 head onto the eta block I've had sitting for 7+ years. I made sure the keep the cylinder walls oiled but I didn't do as good a job on the mating surface, and there are a couple spots where there is some surface rust. I've googled some ways to address this, but I'm wondering if anybody has dealt with the same issue and what the safest way to clean it was. Thanks.
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Cleaning mating surface of block
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Originally posted by AndrewBird View PostIf you can't feel it with your fingernail, an abrasive pad or wire wheel will be just fine. If you can feel it, there is likely pitting. How bad the pitting is will determine what needs to be done. Minor pitting isn't that big of an issue. Just clean it up and go.
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is the block still in the engine bay or this disassembled off the car89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
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Originally posted by digger View Postis the block still in the engine bay or this disassembled off the car
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I've used scotch brite for rust removal with great success on rocker cover, waterpump, thermostat housing and sump mating surfaces on my m20.My transaction feedback on r3vlimited :):Clickety click
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Originally posted by raudonis View PostI've used scotch brite for rust removal with great success on rocker cover, waterpump, thermostat housing and sump mating surfaces on my m20.
If you choose to use this, clean it VERY well after.
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Originally posted by Cabriolet View PostASE just put out a memo, last year, on this. using scotch brite can leave material behind and cause catastrophic failure of the cylinder rings and other moving parts.
If you choose to use this, clean it VERY well after.
+1 do not fucking use scotch brite. I used it and the abrasive dust got everywhere. I was lucky because I plugged all the oil passages beforehand , and managed to clean out the cylinders with water and compressed air.
If you do it anyway, get some high quality scotch brite and check beforehand to see if it leaves dust behind.
But please, get yourself a flat sanding stone or something equivalent, and prep well. I also did an oil change and ran an oil flush treatment after just to be sure none of that dust ruined all the pricey machine work I did.
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Originally posted by Cabriolet View PostASE just put out a memo, last year, on this. using scotch brite can leave material behind and cause catastrophic failure of the cylinder rings and other moving parts.
If you choose to use this, clean it VERY well after.
Hope this makes sense give it a go and see what I mean.
If the engine is still in the car and you just want to refit the head use the sharpening stone method must be new or in still flat condition and using the smooth side only with some light oil etc.
If the engine is out for a rebuild get it machined flat.
Dave.
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