My turn! My 2.7i Stroker Thread

[nando]

sean, what's the ratio in your diff? I want to go lower.. my shifting still needs improving, but even so, 1st and 2nd gear are pretty short. it would be nice to not have to shift twice before 60mph...

[Sean]

sean, what's the ratio in your diff? I want to go lower.. my shifting still needs improving, but even so, 1st and 2nd gear are pretty short. it would be nice to not have to shift twice before 60mph...

I'm running the 3.73 LSD from an IS.

It's good, but I really got used to my short gears with the 3.73 with my old SuperEta motor. I could really go for a 4.10 - but a 3.73 will be alright for a while. ;)

[nando]

I think you are better off with the 3.73. I'm looking for an ix 3.64, the 4.10 will probably do me some good for autox though!

[Sean]

I think you are better off with the 3.73. I'm looking for an ix 3.64, the 4.10 will probably do me some good for autox though!

Yea, I have to shift into 3rd to get to 60, but it still doesn't take long. If I take it to redline, probably to 6500 (haven't quite yet) I could probably get pretty damn close. :D

[EtaSport]

3.64 might do it at 6600. I can take 2nd to around 75 or so with a 2.93. That gets my 60 mph dash down a little bit, and gives me a lot more room for downshifting at speed. I downshifted to third at 95 the other day (around 5500rpm). I like the 2.93 for the highway and milage, but I need at least a 3.25 with the shift in the power band.

[JoeMadoo]

Sean, you're my hero.

[Sean]

Sean, you're my hero.

Haha, thanks man. ;)

[oldskool3]

Man alive! this thread is awesome just went through the whole thing and your engine turned out insanely beautiful. I just picked up an eta this summer with a blown head gasket and after debating to do the exact stroker setup you have settled on swapping in a m20b25 with new valve seals and some other new parts.

Looking at your project I wish I had the money to go your route but a 2 month trip to europe in the same summer I try to do an engine build just didn't work out money wise. Maybe next winter I will do it properly and go stroker. Anyways man I am sure I will have a wet dream about your engine tonight. Thanks for the awesome thread

[nefarious7907]

Update??

[mjg23bmw]

+1 update.....How's it doing after about a year of driving it?

[Sean]

Well, it has something like 10,000+ miles on it now.

It runs really good, except for a couple things...

First - I now have an issue between 5 and 6 grand, only at full throttle. It's almost as if my car is lurching at those revs, like someone is taping on the brakes while I try to accelerate. Lag of some sort. I have no idea what's causing it.

Additionally, I think that my larger injectors have caused a huge amount of buildup in my last two cylinders. I pulled out my sparkplugs when I was home a week ago, and the 6th cylinder plug was HORRIBLY covered in carbon. It looked like SHIT! The 5th one didn't look quite as bad, but wasn't perfect. THe front four were perfect. Looking into the cylinders with a light thru the sparkplug hole showed lots of buildup in 6, and not much, if any, in 1.

I think a big part of that is I'm still running the stock AFM with the larger injectors, so I may be running rich at full throttle.

It's also possible that my lag issue at WOT is being caused by my ignition coil, but I'm really not sure. The resistance wasn't spot on, but it still pulls damn good, until I hit that laggy crap. I've already put on a new crankshaft position sensor, new plugs and checked the wires, cap and rotor. Everything looks damn good.

My plan now is to get my M30 AFM hooked up, get an Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator and hopefully a chip, since I'm still running the stock IS chip.

My miles have been mostly highway. However, almost all my miles have been with my car carrying me and 500+ lbs of my stuff. If I'm not driving with all my stuff between school and home, its around town, and I am having fun.

I've had to fix a couple small things here and there, loose hoses were found after around 5000 miles, one started leaking coolant. Easy fix though.

Engine is definitely not as clean. I'm leaking oil from somewhere - possibly the front of the engine. It finds it's way back to the bell housing. That, combined with possible burning of oil take about a quart every 3400 miles or so. I've gone 4000+ miles since my last oil change, and before driving out to CA this past weekend, I had to top it off with a quart, which surprised me cause it was the first time I had to do sucha thing.

I still haven't dynoed it. But, it hauls and it's a blast on the track. :D

Now to just perfect it a bit. When I'm out of college, I'll through a turbo on and do some headwork too. :)

[griffy]

Looks liked a great project. Can you give a ballpark price on what the 2.7 engine built would cost? I've driven a 2.7, and it was fantastic. It left a lasting impression. Always contemplated what it would take money-wise to make it happen.

[EtaSport]

Sounds like those last 2 cylinders might have something to do with your lag between 5-6k. What plugs are you running? Id be nice to do a balance test, im sure those last two would be off somewhat. Id up the ignition if your running an older coil, it sometimes makes a huge difference.

[Sean]

Looks liked a great project. Can you give a ballpark price on what the 2.7 engine built would cost? I've driven a 2.7, and it was fantastic. It left a lasting impression. Always contemplated what it would take money-wise to make it happen.

Ballpark? Oh shit man. I really poured a lot of money into this, and it was a budget 2.7. Would you be using SuperEta pistons with eta rods and crank? Because custom pistons and rods will increase the price by over a grand, possibly.

If you source out supereta pistons, those might run you about $300-$400, and eta rods are cheap. Then just have block work done, probably run $200 for that. Custom pistons will run between $600 and $1000 depending on what you decide. But, if you go that route, I'd use (2.5) rods, or even S50 rods (lighter and longer than 2.5 rods) - since you cna tell them the rod length and crank stroke.

In terms of engine rebuild parts, I probably spent about $500-$600 on various pieces - all bearings, gaskets, and some extras here and there. Bought a new oil pump, crankscraper (oil baffle), new intermediate shaft gear, just a bunch of things that I could replace now a lot easier.

So, bare minimum, expect at least $1500 for a complete budget stroker. But, be prepared to spend a lot more. It's funny how much you pour in in the long run. It just...damn - adds up fast!

Oh, and that's with zero headwork, besides resurfacing and new valve stem seals and a valve grand (which ran me about $250 or so)

I had my rotating assembly balanced too, which I'd suggest, and that run me about $150 right there.

It all adds up. If I were to do it again, I'd get more money and build a bigger storker with an S52 crank (86.5 mm stroke) with S50 rods and MM pistons. But, that woulda run me easily $1600 just for the bottom end components...so no go there. :)

Nando (Chris) could really fill you in too. He did a stroker on his IX at the same time I did mine, and he got MM pistons.

MM, meaning Metric Mechanic, byt the way.

Sounds like those last 2 cylinders might have something to do with your lag between 5-6k. What plugs are you running? Id be nice to do a balance test, im sure those last two would be off somewhat. Id up the ignition if your running an older coil, it sometimes makes a huge difference.

I'm running Bosch Supers. Balance test...like, in terms of power generated?

Yea, I'm really thinking if I got an AFPR, new bigger plug wires, and a stronger coil, there'd be a noticeable difference.

[nando]

forget about FPRs and all that junk, you should just ditch motronic and go stand alone :p