My turn! My 2.7i Stroker Thread

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  • Bimmerfanatik
    Banned
    • May 2004
    • 5349

    #16
    Nice work Sean. Makes me wish I did the bottom end this time around - should have, since the head was completely redone, and now there's a slight tick that's got me real nervous. Taking it to Schneller in a day or two to have a look, see if maybe I'm just paranoid.

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    • SA E30
      E30 Fanatic
      • Feb 2004
      • 1248

      #17
      Take a spanner with a big pole on the end, and just bounce up and down on it until u can't tighten it anymore...

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      • evoe46m3
        Member
        • Mar 2006
        • 70

        #18
        I am doing the same thing. I have an i head and super eta bottom end. All my stuff is in the machine shop right now. I am going to put a cam in from top end performance, ie headers, m30 airflow meter 19lb injectors and a chip from dsylva. My goal is 160 whp but from what I hear it may not be realistic.

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        • Sean
          R3V Elite
          • Oct 2003
          • 5793

          #19
          Originally posted by evoe46m3
          I am doing the same thing. I have an i head and super eta bottom end. All my stuff is in the machine shop right now. I am going to put a cam in from top end performance, ie headers, m30 airflow meter 19lb injectors and a chip from dsylva. My goal is 160 whp but from what I hear it may not be realistic.
          Yea, it's called a budget stroker for a reason ;)
          - Sean Hayes

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          • nando
            Moderator
            • Nov 2003
            • 34827

            #20
            I don't think it's totally unrealistic with the right headwork.. I wouldn't use a racetep cam though.
            Build thread

            Bimmerlabs

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            • Sean
              R3V Elite
              • Oct 2003
              • 5793

              #21
              SON OF A BITCH!

              Yea...was putting in the pistons today - on number 4 - broke my ring. Slipped out between the compressor and the block.

              Joy. Now I have ti wait til Tuesday to get a new ring set.

              WOW!

              I'll get pictures up. Crank still looks badass tho! :)


              SOOO GAAAY lol
              - Sean Hayes

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              • nando
                Moderator
                • Nov 2003
                • 34827

                #22
                woops! :(

                should have my block monday or tues.. in other news, I stripped another front driveshaft yesterday.. good thing I have a 5 speed swap ready to go :D
                Build thread

                Bimmerlabs

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                • Sean
                  R3V Elite
                  • Oct 2003
                  • 5793

                  #23
                  Yea, tell me about it. lol Oh well...I'll get other things done.
                  - Sean Hayes

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                  • evoe46m3
                    Member
                    • Mar 2006
                    • 70

                    #24
                    Ya my dad is a mechanic and I make sure he is supervising so I dont make any expensive mistakes.:D

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                    • Sean
                      R3V Elite
                      • Oct 2003
                      • 5793

                      #25
                      Originally posted by evoe46m3
                      Ya my dad is a mechanic and I make sure he is supervising so I dont make any expensive mistakes.:D
                      Meh, I don't have anyone to supervise.

                      That, and...breaking a ring isn't exactly expensive ($90 max - possibly only $15) - but it's just a hassle, having to wait another 4 days. :-\
                      - Sean Hayes

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                      • Sean
                        R3V Elite
                        • Oct 2003
                        • 5793

                        #26
                        About torqueing that crankshaft bolt.

                        My friends suggested just throwing some red loctite on it, and hittin it with my impact gun until it doesn't budge anymore. Does that sound like a good idea - or no?
                        - Sean Hayes

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                        • e30 gangsta
                          No R3VLimiter
                          • Jul 2004
                          • 3877

                          #27
                          160 whp? I threw down 150rwhp untuned. I don't see why 160 isn't reachable. If I do the 2.7 and don't get 160 I'd be pissed.

                          Comment

                          • nando
                            Moderator
                            • Nov 2003
                            • 34827

                            #28
                            Originally posted by Sean
                            About torqueing that crankshaft bolt.

                            My friends suggested just throwing some red loctite on it, and hittin it with my impact gun until it doesn't budge anymore. Does that sound like a good idea - or no?
                            if that were good enough, I think BMW would have done it - locktite was around back then too. I wouldn't want to try and get the crank nut off later on, either.

                            I like the idea using a breaker bar with a 4' pipe. it you can even calculate how much force you are putting on it - say you weigh 185lbs, to put 320 ft-lbs (and it's +/- 15 so there's a good range there) you'd need to put all your weight on a ~1.75' pipe. I used this method for my ix front hub nuts, which are supposed to be 240ft-lbs, and it was never an issue - I didn't even have lockplates on them.

                            just be careful where you brace your crank, you don't want to damage your new bearings.
                            Build thread

                            Bimmerlabs

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                            • Sean
                              R3V Elite
                              • Oct 2003
                              • 5793

                              #29
                              Originally posted by nando
                              if that were good enough, I think BMW would have done it - locktite was around back then too. I wouldn't want to try and get the crank nut off later on, either.

                              I like the idea using a breaker bar with a 4' pipe. it you can even calculate how much force you are putting on it - say you weigh 185lbs, to put 320 ft-lbs (and it's +/- 15 so there's a good range there) you'd need to put all your weight on a ~1.75' pipe. I used this method for my ix front hub nuts, which are supposed to be 240ft-lbs, and it was never an issue - I didn't even have lockplates on them.

                              just be careful where you brace your crank, you don't want to damage your new bearings.
                              haha...yes, very true. Any suggestions on where to brace the crank?

                              I think I'm just going to jam a piece of wood in there or something. I need to figure it out.

                              Sounds like a good idea, I've been in physics, I can definately figure that out.
                              - Sean Hayes

                              Comment

                              • SA E30
                                E30 Fanatic
                                • Feb 2004
                                • 1248

                                #30
                                Ball peen hammer... wedged bewteen the crank and block works well... u'll just shatter the wood block.

                                I prefer 2 use a shifting spanner on the rear of the crank, and a pole on the other, and just hold the shifting spanner with all ur weight, while someone else jumps on the pole on the other end :p

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