Higher temp = Higher idle -- running out of things to check

[betsy325e]

Update:

Replaced faulty charcoal canister non-return valve. Still doing the same fucking thing but about 300 rpm lower at operating temperature with the ICV screw all the way in.

HELP.

[betsy325e]

Update:

1. Went full out and ripped the intake manifold off looking for leaks/check for a crack in the manifold. Nada. Did a cheapo pipe smoke test. Nada. I am thoroughly convinced this is not a vacuum leak issue.

2. I spliced in a normal blue connector without a resistor in it to the coolant temp. sensor. Now my ohms at the sensor itself and the idle control module are the same. Did not resolve the high idle.

3. Removed the black housing on the two prong connector for the ICV hoping I'd find something frigged up in there. No such luck: everything nice, clean, and snuggles.

4. Connected up ICV with a cheapo ammeter in the loop. Blew fuse rated for 300 mA...so I think she's getting the required 400-500mA variation haha. Time to upgrade ammeter and test again.

5. Let's say I get the ammeter hooked up and check it and the reading isn't in spec of between 400-500 mA. Does that mean the ICM is fucked, or the ICV? I don't think this is going to be the issue because I've had 3 different ICMs in there and an equal number ICVs at this point.

*I should note that I cleaned the frig out of all my ICVs. I have seen on some high idle threads that people have done this and that they suspect they somehow ruined their ICV. Is that because people are mistakenly conflating correlation with causation, or does that actually happen? If it does happen, what physically happens that frigs up the ICV?

Thanks

[betsy325e]

Update:

Ran car with brake booster line from manifold disconnected and plugged at manifold: No change in idle.

Retested every pin-in/pin-out on ICM that I could find. Corroded terminal not sending 12 DCV from park/neutral switch. Fixed. No change in idle speed.

ICV has screw all the way in. Barely holds it down to 1500 rpm at operating temperature. I read somewhere that almost no air should be bypassing ICV with the screw all the way in. However,
I connected 9-volt battery to ICV with car running. Immediately was able to stall car.

Anyone got a clue wtf that means?

[betsy325e]

Also: got new ammeter and tested ICV.

1. Was getting a basically constant 480 mA through the ICV far as I could tell. Bentley says it's supposed to fluctuate. I don't know by how much.
2. Turning the idle adjust screw from all the way in to all the way out resulted in dropping it down to just 470 mA.

Anyone? I'm just talking to myself here. Even if you can't help me, say hi. Maybe a joke? Maybe a cute anecdote?

xoxoxoxoxox

[tomstin]

Did you ever get to the bottom of this? I'm having a similar problem. Found that resistor and thought it looked like a hack, but searching here, seems like it should be installed. I've been picking off problems one at a time. Was fighting multiple problems, but now everything seems to be right but idles 900ish cold and as soon as the thermostat opens, it jumps to 1200ish.