Agree with Digitalwave on the front alignment, you basically just get what you get until you're hitting the inside of shock tower as you push the shock back and to the inside. You will probably not be able to adjust camber with the struts installed, so I left my camber adjustment bolts loose, pushed everything to the max, tightened one bolt and then unbolted the top hat from the shock tower so I could get to the top again to tighten all the adjustment bolts. For the rear adjustment, I think the Posi-Lock style is a good idea. I cam cam bolts on my car and they've moved once before.
The problem with most of the roll center correction kits is that they also have steering quickener and additional angle built in to please the drift crowd. I got lucky and MRT had some extra extended front ball joints that they sold me separate. I'm really impressed with the build quality, very nice hardened pin and 12-point ARP nut. They weren't that expensive and I could't find anyone else who had drop in front ball joints. If you go to custom LCAs you can use circle track ball joints which would be much more economical.
The problem with most of the roll center correction kits is that they also have steering quickener and additional angle built in to please the drift crowd. I got lucky and MRT had some extra extended front ball joints that they sold me separate. I'm really impressed with the build quality, very nice hardened pin and 12-point ARP nut. They weren't that expensive and I could't find anyone else who had drop in front ball joints. If you go to custom LCAs you can use circle track ball joints which would be much more economical.
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