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    camshaft timing marker?

    all the write ups i have seen show either a camshaft timing marker on the toothed pulley or an arrow within it

    here are some photos of what i see:






    am i simply blind? or is there a different way to tell whether 1 or 6 cylinder are at tdc?

    fyi: the crank is at tdc according to its markers
    1986 325
    1988 325is 2.7 Stroker

    #2
    i would replace that cam and the intermediate shaft pulley. those pressed ones are known to fail.

    i would set the crank to TDC and mark the tooth on the cam, that ligns up the with the head. then swap the belt, if you need to get it running. otherwise replace the cam and IMS pulleys.
    Much wow
    I hate 4 doors

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      #3
      where it should be lol



      based on the OP you are 360* out on the crank or 180* on cam from TDC No1 compression
      Last edited by digger; 01-19-2016, 12:36 AM.
      89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

      new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Cabriolet View Post
        i would replace that cam and the intermediate shaft pulley. those pressed ones are known to fail.

        i would set the crank to TDC and mark the tooth on the cam, that ligns up the with the head. then swap the belt, if you need to get it running. otherwise replace the cam and IMS pulleys.
        ^^^ what he said. Get those stamped gears off of that engine pronto!
        101

        The E30 collection:
        1987 325es M52 - Schwarz / Taurus Red Sport (son #2's)
        1987 325is - Delphin / Black Sport (son #3's)
        1987 325i Convertible - Triple Black
        1989 325iX Coupe - Diamondschwarz / Black Comfort
        1990 325iX Coupe - Sterling Silver / Grey Sport

        1981 Fiat 124 Spider 2000 - Green / Tan
        1998 Volvo V70 GLT - White / Tan
        1998 Volvo S70 T5 manual - White / Taupe
        2001 Ford Windstar - Silver / Grey (parts hauler)
        2006 Lexus GX470 - White / Tan (tow rig)

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          #5
          Originally posted by Cabriolet View Post
          i would replace that cam and the intermediate shaft pulley. those pressed ones are known to fail.

          i would set the crank to TDC and mark the tooth on the cam, that ligns up the with the head. then swap the belt, if you need to get it running. otherwise replace the cam and IMS pulleys.
          is the cam pulley easy to remove and still maintain everything "in time?" Sorry for a lame question, first time doing this.

          with a quick cursory search I could not find a cam pulley or ims pulley? pelican did not come up with a search

          some other searches seem to imply ill need face seals too. any more insight would be appreciated!
          1986 325
          1988 325is 2.7 Stroker

          Comment


            #6
            You can loosen th bolt holding the gears in place before you remove the timing belt. Then realign the marks, loosen the tensioner and slide the belt off. From there you can remove and replace both gears without anything rotating. I put the old belt back on temporarily to tighten the bolts, then put your new belt/tnsioner in
            Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

            https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
            Alice the Time Capsule
            http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
            87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by jeffnhiscars View Post
              You can loosen th bolt holding the gears in place before you remove the timing belt. Then realign the marks, loosen the tensioner and slide the belt off. From there you can remove and replace both gears without anything rotating. I put the old belt back on temporarily to tighten the bolts, then put your new belt/tnsioner in
              Sounds straightforward enough. Thanks!

              Autohausaz says "For models with production date through 12/1986 may also require adapter, cover, and lock bolt if not previously updated. These additional parts are only available through BMW" for the camshaft timing gear. Mine is an 86 and just want verify that this is true?
              1986 325
              1988 325is 2.7 Stroker

              Comment


                #8
                Check your VIN on realoem to confirm which parts your car will need. I've never seen a need for those spacers on a N Am car but I think have a set that came with my 731 head if you need them and can't get them
                Last edited by jeffnhiscars; 01-20-2016, 08:42 AM.
                Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                Alice the Time Capsule
                http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

                Comment


                  #9
                  Is it possible to put the pulley on backwards creating the no mark issue? Mine is the same way and has no tdc marking. I had to do mine by pulling the valve cover to find tdc

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by jeffw View Post
                    Is it possible to put the pulley on backwards creating the no mark issue? Mine is the same way and has no tdc marking. I had to do mine by pulling the valve cover to find tdc
                    There's a dowel pin on the end of the cam that locks in to a hole on the stamped pulley and a recess on the sintered (new) pulley. It's impossible to put them on backwards.
                    Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                    Alice the Time Capsule
                    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                    87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

                    Comment


                      #11
                      mine is the same way. is this on all non badged i/e 325's? I have a 1987 325 and i have the same thing. doing my first timing belt job and this is making it more difficult than ever for me. can anyone help me and point me in the right direction? would highly appreciate it.
                      sorry to bring up an old post

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by esg View Post
                        mine is the same way. is this on all non badged i/e 325's? I have a 1987 325 and i have the same thing. doing my first timing belt job and this is making it more difficult than ever for me. can anyone help me and point me in the right direction? would highly appreciate it.
                        sorry to bring up an old post
                        just buy the new explosion proof cam gear 11311714988 and line the dots up.

                        as currently assembled with timing belt on and tensioned rotate crank to tdc mark on crank gear.

                        make sure the 3 pointed rotor adapter on end of cam is point up (~11 o'clock). if its pointing down at ~5 o'clock then do 1 more rotation of crank until it lines up again

                        loosen cam bolt with old belt still on as its easier to keep engine from spinning (never rotate cam without timing belt on)

                        replace the old cam gear with new one (and cam seal/o-ring if required) and the cam dots should also be at TDC just like the crank marks

                        just nip up the cam gear bolt so it seats properly but make sure you dont torque it so it accidentally rotate the cam (keeping spark plugs in helps)

                        install belt and properly torque cam bolt once the belt is in place to keep them in phase

                        continue with timing belt procedure
                        Last edited by digger; 05-26-2021, 02:31 AM.
                        89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                        new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                        Comment

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