So I'm in the process of changing out my exhaust studs for the manifold that go into the head, and I was reading some threads about it and some say it's crucial to chase the threads to clean them out with a tap before installing the new studs. Is this important to do? Also, when screwing the new studs in, what is the torque spec for tightening the studs? And should I apply some sort of anti-seize compound or loctite to the studs before installation?
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I feel its important to chase the threads. I only install the studs finger-tight or a little past, with a little bit of anti-seize since it is a steel stud into aluminum. I have not experienced any issues doing it this way although sometimes the stud comes out with the nut upon removing, but that seems to happen sometimes no matter what you do. I'll take one coming out with the nut over one snapping off.sigpic
1991 325i Sport - Calypsorot Metallic - DAILY DRIVEN
WTB in SoCal: 8"/10" Lukebox, leather Sport steering wheel, 60L MotoMeter fuel gauge, Thule/Yakima roof rack
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Do not torque these unless you want to risk cracking your head.
Good advice from VBSeat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com
https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
Alice the Time Capsule
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220
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anyone remember where to get the studs with hex drive allen key at one end?89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
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My recommendation is finger tight. Also try to blow any oil/chunks/etc. out of the holes after you chase the threads, before installing the new studs.sigpic
1991 325i Sport - Calypsorot Metallic - DAILY DRIVEN
WTB in SoCal: 8"/10" Lukebox, leather Sport steering wheel, 60L MotoMeter fuel gauge, Thule/Yakima roof rack
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No reason to go any tighter than finger tight. Basically just enough to keep the stud in place.
You don't have to chase the threads, but if there is junk in them, you should. If the studs won't go all the way in with just your fingers, you should chase the hole.
I highly suggest you use the stock copper nuts. Keeps them from rusting onto the studs.
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Originally posted by KnockOffBrand View PostI got studs and copper coated nuts from fcpeuro. So the consensus is that there is no certain torque spec, just hand tight? I've heard like 10-15 ft-lbs on other threads/forums.Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com
https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
Alice the Time Capsule
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220
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