Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Replacing exhaust studs

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Replacing exhaust studs

    So I'm in the process of changing out my exhaust studs for the manifold that go into the head, and I was reading some threads about it and some say it's crucial to chase the threads to clean them out with a tap before installing the new studs. Is this important to do? Also, when screwing the new studs in, what is the torque spec for tightening the studs? And should I apply some sort of anti-seize compound or loctite to the studs before installation?
    Last edited by KnockOffBrand; 07-04-2016, 10:13 AM.
    sigpic

    #2
    I feel its important to chase the threads. I only install the studs finger-tight or a little past, with a little bit of anti-seize since it is a steel stud into aluminum. I have not experienced any issues doing it this way although sometimes the stud comes out with the nut upon removing, but that seems to happen sometimes no matter what you do. I'll take one coming out with the nut over one snapping off.
    sigpic
    1991 325i Sport - Calypsorot Metallic - DAILY DRIVEN

    WTB in SoCal: 8"/10" Lukebox, leather Sport steering wheel, 60L MotoMeter fuel gauge, Thule/Yakima roof rack

    Comment


      #3
      Do not torque these unless you want to risk cracking your head.

      Good advice from VB
      Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
      Alice the Time Capsule
      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
      87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

      Comment


        #4
        anyone remember where to get the studs with hex drive allen key at one end?
        89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

        new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

        Comment


          #5
          I went stainless and got a set of these and hope they are up to the part for a set of these nuts, I have not installed them yet but these nuts are a work of art (well I think they will work nicely anyways... 8^)



          My M20 Frankenbuild(s)
          4 Sale - Fully Built TurnKey Megasquirt Plug and Play EMS

          Comment


            #6
            I got studs and copper coated nuts from fcpeuro. So the consensus is that there is no certain torque spec, just hand tight? I've heard like 10-15 ft-lbs on other threads/forums.
            sigpic

            Comment


              #7
              My recommendation is finger tight. Also try to blow any oil/chunks/etc. out of the holes after you chase the threads, before installing the new studs.
              sigpic
              1991 325i Sport - Calypsorot Metallic - DAILY DRIVEN

              WTB in SoCal: 8"/10" Lukebox, leather Sport steering wheel, 60L MotoMeter fuel gauge, Thule/Yakima roof rack

              Comment


                #8
                No reason to go any tighter than finger tight. Basically just enough to keep the stud in place.

                You don't have to chase the threads, but if there is junk in them, you should. If the studs won't go all the way in with just your fingers, you should chase the hole.

                I highly suggest you use the stock copper nuts. Keeps them from rusting onto the studs.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Chase the threads with a thread chaser, not a tap (yes, there is a difference and for a reason...).

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by KnockOffBrand View Post
                    I got studs and copper coated nuts from fcpeuro. So the consensus is that there is no certain torque spec, just hand tight? I've heard like 10-15 ft-lbs on other threads/forums.
                    They are surely solid copper and not coated
                    Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                    Alice the Time Capsule
                    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                    87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X