BACK STORY
A couple years back I got asked to do a m20 swap in a e21, the odd part was i got asked to put in a ETA m20B27 out of a 84 325e.
i got brought both cars, both where running and i did the swap in about a day. but we found that the car wasn't getting spark or injector pulse(a problem the e30 was pledged with before the swap started) the owner lost interest and need to sell it off.
it ended up in the hands of another buddy of mine, and he had more drive to get the swap fully finished. so we brought it back to my house and got more serious about it.
i took a multi-meter to the DME plug and found all was in spec, we checked resistance to both sensors and both checked out.
i jacked up the car and looked though the lower sensors hole while turning the crank and found that in place of the square reference point there was a hole. because of this the DME doesn't know where TDC is and no spark is given.
HOW TO FIX
We didn't want to pull the trans, take out the flywheel and go buy another, but that looked like the only option at this point, but if somethings broken, why not take a shot in the dark and try to fix it? worst case your out a couple bucks and a afternoon. And wouldn't you know it, this worked perfectly
Tools you will need
-Allen to remove the sensor(IDK the size)
-22mm wrench to turn the crank so you can see where the reference point though the sensor hole
-6mm-1.00 tap
-13/64"(5.1mm) drill bit for hardened steel
-Red Lock-tite
-1 short 6mmx1.00 bolt
WHAT YOU DO
(insert bullshit about if you fuck up you car or die thats on you)
-jack up your car and remove the lower sensor.
-rotate crank front the front slowly while looking though sensor hole until you see this
(removing the spark plugs make this step a lot more smooth so your not fighting compression)
-take your drill bit and line it up with the part of the broken pin, start drilling you really cant go to deep, and you will tell once you have gotten all the the pin out because it will start diving a lot slower because the flywheel is a lot harder. drill as much as you can as straight as you can
-take your tap and spray it with some grease and slowly tap out the hole
-with out lock-tite slowly thread the bolt in the hole, once it is all the way in check to make sure it will clear the sensor by putting the sensor back in, if the sensor doesn't go all the way in, pull it back out and remove the bolt.
-slowly grind down the bolt until it is short enough that the sensor sits totally flush.
-Now with the sensor in keep your hand on it and move the crank, back and forth, make sure it isn't coming in contact with the sensor.(if it is grind more away until it clears the sensor)
-pull the bolt back out and coat it with red lock-tite and put it back in the hole, snug it good, but be careful not to strip the threads you cut in.
-put sensor back in and check to make sure your still not coming in contact with the bolt
-bolt sensor back in place and fire it up.
this worked perfectly for me and the car is now on its way back on the road.
best of luck
A couple years back I got asked to do a m20 swap in a e21, the odd part was i got asked to put in a ETA m20B27 out of a 84 325e.
i got brought both cars, both where running and i did the swap in about a day. but we found that the car wasn't getting spark or injector pulse(a problem the e30 was pledged with before the swap started) the owner lost interest and need to sell it off.
it ended up in the hands of another buddy of mine, and he had more drive to get the swap fully finished. so we brought it back to my house and got more serious about it.
i took a multi-meter to the DME plug and found all was in spec, we checked resistance to both sensors and both checked out.
i jacked up the car and looked though the lower sensors hole while turning the crank and found that in place of the square reference point there was a hole. because of this the DME doesn't know where TDC is and no spark is given.
HOW TO FIX
We didn't want to pull the trans, take out the flywheel and go buy another, but that looked like the only option at this point, but if somethings broken, why not take a shot in the dark and try to fix it? worst case your out a couple bucks and a afternoon. And wouldn't you know it, this worked perfectly
Tools you will need
-Allen to remove the sensor(IDK the size)
-22mm wrench to turn the crank so you can see where the reference point though the sensor hole
-6mm-1.00 tap
-13/64"(5.1mm) drill bit for hardened steel
-Red Lock-tite
-1 short 6mmx1.00 bolt
WHAT YOU DO
(insert bullshit about if you fuck up you car or die thats on you)
-jack up your car and remove the lower sensor.
-rotate crank front the front slowly while looking though sensor hole until you see this
(removing the spark plugs make this step a lot more smooth so your not fighting compression)
-take your drill bit and line it up with the part of the broken pin, start drilling you really cant go to deep, and you will tell once you have gotten all the the pin out because it will start diving a lot slower because the flywheel is a lot harder. drill as much as you can as straight as you can
-take your tap and spray it with some grease and slowly tap out the hole
-with out lock-tite slowly thread the bolt in the hole, once it is all the way in check to make sure it will clear the sensor by putting the sensor back in, if the sensor doesn't go all the way in, pull it back out and remove the bolt.
-slowly grind down the bolt until it is short enough that the sensor sits totally flush.
-Now with the sensor in keep your hand on it and move the crank, back and forth, make sure it isn't coming in contact with the sensor.(if it is grind more away until it clears the sensor)
-pull the bolt back out and coat it with red lock-tite and put it back in the hole, snug it good, but be careful not to strip the threads you cut in.
-put sensor back in and check to make sure your still not coming in contact with the bolt
-bolt sensor back in place and fire it up.
this worked perfectly for me and the car is now on its way back on the road.
best of luck
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