M20 cylinder walls - need hone and re-ring or no?

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • the_eskimo_wonder
    replied
    Originally posted by SkiFree
    Mark is your neighbor?

    Good luck on the project!
    I guess there aren't that many Alpina 2002s being restored out there. He was my next door neighbor for the last 20ish years

    Leave a comment:


  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by the_eskimo_wonder
    Going to use the eta pistons as there's a strong chance this engine will see a turbo in the next few years (even more reason to do the bottom end).
    Even with a turbo, there's no benefits to mating the flat pistons to the 885 head. The m20 is only 8.8:1 compression anyways, no nee to go lower (I have gone as much as 9.6:1 with great results).

    Leave a comment:


  • SkiFree
    replied
    Originally posted by the_eskimo_wonder
    And to think, this started as a free car. On the upside I've definitely earned the respect of my neighbor who's been restoring a factory Alpina 2002 racecar for the last 15 years
    Mark is your neighbor?

    Good luck on the project!

    Leave a comment:


  • the_eskimo_wonder
    replied
    I tossed the original head gasket during tear down so that option is out. I'm going to go ahead and do it right. Going to strip everything out, go through the bottom end completely and make sure it's perfect before slapping the head on. Going to use the eta pistons as there's a strong chance this engine will see a turbo in the next few years (even more reason to do the bottom end).

    SkiFree, I appreciate the offer but I'm up in the SF Bay area. I've found some good recommendations in the area though.

    And to think, this started as a free car. On the upside I've definitely earned the respect of my neighbor who's been restoring a factory Alpina 2002 racecar for the last 15 years

    Leave a comment:


  • zaq123
    replied
    Originally posted by the_eskimo_wonder
    Well the more I dive in, the more I realize if I'm going to be into it a grand, I might as well be in for $1200-1400.


    welcome to the madness.

    Leave a comment:


  • SkiFree
    replied
    Originally posted by the_eskimo_wonder
    Well the more I dive in, the more I realize if I'm going to be into it a grand, I might as well be in for $1200-1400. Going to pull the crank and check all the bearing tolerances, as well as hone and re-ring. Can I check the connecting rod bearing tolerances without disassembling them? All these non-reusable TTY bolt sets really start to add up.

    Really wish I had cranked it and gotten compression numbers before I pulled it apart
    Hey, that's great news.

    I don't normally do this, but given you seem to be on the right path... if you are in the LA/Pasadena area, I can give you the name of an extremely good (and fairly priced) machinist.

    Leave a comment:


  • 95BMWIC
    replied
    Originally posted by Andre3127
    OP says that engine is a b27 which already has the eta crank, because it's an eta engine.
    Nice catch Andre ..

    Advice stays the same -

    but if the stroker is something you are after - keep the crank - just switch out to "i" domed pistons with the "i" head. Im assuming thats what you are doing from your first post.."2.7i engine build.

    Leave a comment:


  • Andre3127
    replied
    Originally posted by 95BMWIC
    If you are putting that much effort into it - (and since it is already disassembled) pull the pistons, measure, install new rings and check main / crank bearings to ensure bottom end is perfect..

    You could also buy an "e" crank and with a little planing of the deck, build yourself a sweet little stroker motor..
    OP says that engine is a b27 which already has the eta crank, because it's an eta engine.

    Leave a comment:


  • e30sh
    replied
    You can use the old head gasket, old head bolts and even your new head if it's ready and do a leak down test. It's a great tool for finding where your compression leaks are coming from.

    Leave a comment:


  • the_eskimo_wonder
    replied
    Well the more I dive in, the more I realize if I'm going to be into it a grand, I might as well be in for $1200-1400. Going to pull the crank and check all the bearing tolerances, as well as hone and re-ring. Can I check the connecting rod bearing tolerances without disassembling them? All these non-reusable TTY bolt sets really start to add up.

    Really wish I had cranked it and gotten compression numbers before I pulled it apart

    Leave a comment:


  • SkiFree
    replied
    Originally posted by 95BMWIC
    If you are putting that much effort into it - (and since it is already disassembled) pull the pistons, measure, install new rings and check main / crank bearings to ensure bottom end is perfect..
    This. At a minimum I would disassemble and take to a machinist to measure/hone.

    Plan for the worst, hope for the best. Are you going to do this right, or go with hoping it works? If you decide to put it back together and run it as is, I certainly hope you aren't going to blame anyone but yourself if something goes sideways.

    Leave a comment:


  • 95BMWIC
    replied
    Originally posted by the_eskimo_wonder
    Wasn't planning on it. Was hoping to just toss a rebuilt, cammed 885 on top with injectors, headers, and tune and call it a day
    If you are putting that much effort into it - (and since it is already disassembled) pull the pistons, measure, install new rings and check main / crank bearings to ensure bottom end is perfect..

    You could also buy an "e" crank and with a little planing of the deck, build yourself a sweet little stroker motor..

    Leave a comment:


  • e30davie
    replied
    Did you compression test it before pulling it appart?

    Based on your description and those photos its a good sign. But Always a risk i suppose.

    Pending how dodgy you want to be you could put the head back on with teh old head gasket and timing belt and give it a compression test. But might be alot of effort for not much gain.

    If it were me and I opened an engine and it looked like that, I would probably take the risk and run it.

    Leave a comment:


  • zaq123
    replied
    Originally posted by the_eskimo_wonder
    Wasn't planning on it. Was hoping to just toss a rebuilt, cammed 885 on top with injectors, headers, and tune and call it a day
    you said engine build

    anyway, if that is your plan, just wipe/vacuum everything clean, including the deck so your HG seals well. Don't scrub carbon from pistons, no need for that. Just wipe them with a rag and some kerosene. DO Not use abresive paper or Scotchbrite pads anywhere near that block, unless you plan to disassemble and wash the whole thing clean.

    Have fun

    Leave a comment:


  • the_eskimo_wonder
    replied
    Wasn't planning on it. Was hoping to just toss a rebuilt, cammed 885 on top with injectors, headers, and tune and call it a day

    Leave a comment:

Working...