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1989 325i - Split Second Loss Of Power When Driving

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    #31
    See this thread on how a bad AFM will cause your exact issue.


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      #32
      FWIW, I cleaned and adjusted my AFM wiper on the carbon track in 10 minutes with the whole thing still on the car. I used a small camera cleaner bulb type air blow to get rid of dust and then made the slight bends of the wiper after removing the arm.

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        #33
        Originally posted by ramerco View Post
        If it hasn't been done before, clean the AFM and shift the wiper on the track. I was getting something like this (more of a hesitation in power than a total loss) and the AFM corrected it.
        I think I've subconsciously been trying to pretend it's not the AFM, when it very well could be.

        FYI - the CTS didn't fix the engine cut out problem when cold. In fact, it's still throwing the 1223 code which makes me wonder if the wire going back to the DME is cut or broken. That or the DME doesn't know what to think.

        Just dropped off my baby to an E30 whisperer today. We'll see if he questions the AFM. They have a ton of parts BMWs in their yard so they can quickly swap parts in and out which is cool.

        I'll throw out the AFM tomorrow if he calls.

        Thanks!
        90 Bronzit 325is
        16 Black Sapphire 340i M Sport

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          #34
          Idle Air Control Valve. So this problem, for me, started maybe 3 years ago. Swapped the ICV for a cheap Chinese one. Big mistake. Right out of the box my split second loss of power (which was a total loss of power) was still there. Naturally I thought the problem had to be elsewhere. Fast forward to New Years this year, a brand new OE Bosch T-shaped ICV (with appropriate intake boot) is installed and ever since then there has been no such issue. Of course it took me reading codes without the prompt of a check engine light to finally nail it. It showed me 2 codes, both for the ICV. So yeah just because your CEL is not on, does not mean there are no codes. Luckily the damn thing did not cause damage to my DME as far as I know.

          Summary: A brand new Original Equipment (Bosch) Idle Air Control Valve solved my problem. Pretty sure you can't get the old style L-shaped valve anymore or the cost is insane. Just "upgrade" to the T-shaped. Stay away from Chinese crap! If it does not say where it was made, assume it was made there.

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            #35
            any update? Experiencing similar issues

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              #36
              I was having this issue and although I did not pinpoint the exact cause, The sudden power loss has not since happened. Here’s a list of parts I changed. Changed the AFM, still happened. Cleaned ICV and throttle body, still happened. At this time I checked for vacuum leaks. ICV hose was split and the crank case vent hose was severely cracked... after changing these two hoses the sudden power loss stopped happening, although the car did start idling like hell after this. Now I discovered the fuel tank breather valve hose under the throttle body was destroyed.

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                #37
                My problem is still gone but the car has been sitting awhile because my head warped. Why? Well it's a combo of waiting til the last minute to replace the thermostat and the aux. fan never coming on (fuse box circuit board resistance problem). Always something. Good luck!

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                  #38
                  Thought I provide an update in this thread. Replaced my M20 with another out of a wrecked auto vert with 70K on it. My previous engine had a small crack in the block and was burning through coolant. So, the new engine is strong, BUT I still have the stall out issue. So it's definitely electrical. Replaced the ignition switch because the windows and climate control fan would randomly stop working. The switch kind of fixed that problem, but now my radiator aux fan switch is disconnected because it keeps blowing the accessory fuses. UGH!

                  Should also mention that I did replace the CPS as the old one was all chewed up from not having the clip installed and rubbing into the water pump belt. The usual.

                  So now I'm going to replace all three main relays. Mine are super old and all of the pins are burnt and corroded. We'll see what happens.

                  4 years, all new parts and a new engine and this E30 is still not 100% reliable.


                  90 Bronzit 325is
                  16 Black Sapphire 340i M Sport

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                    #39
                    The relay that would most likely cause this would be the White relay that controls the Fuel Injection. This can fail intermittently and it will stop the car. This is typically found in the small relay box closer to the front of the car. This is the "main" relay.

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by dstevenson View Post
                      The relay that would most likely cause this would be the White relay that controls the Fuel Injection. This can fail intermittently and it will stop the car. This is typically found in the small relay box closer to the front of the car. This is the "main" relay.
                      I replaced all three relays, including the white 5 pin DME relay, and so far so good. KNOCKS ON WOOD.

                      I drove it around my neighborhood for 45 minutes with the headlights on, AC on and stereo blasting and it didn't die. In years past, having the AC on would almost always cause the engine to stall when pushing in the clutch.
                      90 Bronzit 325is
                      16 Black Sapphire 340i M Sport

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