M20 Refresh - Suggestions

[Poorhouse]

Made some progress today.

Oil pan on, head on, engine timed, new timing belt, tensioner and water pump.

Block surface cleaned up. Cleaned carbon buildup off the piston tops. Didn't polish them. They look weird here as there is some residual oil on them.



Fresh Surface on rebuilt head.



Starting to look like something.

[Poorhouse]

Progress slowed. I've been out of town and/or busy with work.
Out of town again next week. Things should get back to normal after that.

Did get some parts back.


Head.

Valve cover and intake with fresh powder coat.





Wiped cam lobe.

[Poorhouse]

I'm out of town this week. Did hear injectors are done and head is about done.
Powder coating black. Raised areas will be aluminum.

[r-mm]

How’s the project coming? I ordered the same RHD flywheel (after some paypal probs that I think others have had) as well as a stock sachs clutch kit. What color did you specify for the powdercoating?

[Poorhouse]

Glad I had the impact. I was on the fence about getting it and am really glad I did.


Got the fuel tank out and ordered new rubber hoses. May or may not have gotten the correct ones. Real OEM was a bit vague.

Dropped the VC and intake mani for powdercoat.

Took a closer look at the 5 speed I got. It's an E trans with the dual mass flywheel. Did some reading here, appears it should work fine with a Euro 323i bearing. Ordered a fancy RHD flywheel. It was cheaper than OEM.

[S.J.1981]

Took me and 2 others with massive breaker bars to get that crank bolt off.

then again, the shop that the PO took the car to loved to over tighten every single bolt they saw. Except the cylinder head bolts, 2 were hard to loosen (as it should being 30nm, 90 + 90 torque), the rest came off with some effort, but not even close to the first two (suspected incorrectly torqued down head bolts).

Replace the transmission mounts while you are there as well.

[Poorhouse]

Crank bolt came off in about 2 seconds with the impact.

Fresh from the parts washer.

[Poorhouse]

I would like to do that some day. I just don't have the confidence I wouldn't fuck it up.
I don't know how to check bearing clearances or crank shaft end play. Plus all the other things I don't even know I don't know. If you know what I mean...

Another question, how are DIYers replacing the front crank seal?
Bently lists states a special tool to hold the crank is needed and the bolt is torqued to 400 ftlb!!

[zaq123]

Heard back from the machine shop.
Cam is damaged at the broken rocker lobe.
They recommend replace cam and all rockers.
They are working up pricing for stock parts.

If I wanted to upgrade what would be the recommendation?

All depends how far you want to take it and your budget. Strocker motor? Just a little wilder cam?

IMO, I would not let the shop do the assembly or purchase parts. Based on your previous posts above, you should be able to do the assembly yourself with a little research. Money saved could buy you some upgrades and quality OEM parts.

Have them cut valve seats, check/replace valve guides, surface the head, hone bores and surface the block. Bring it home, clean very well and do your thing.
You can buy all parts yourself and put it back together.

[Poorhouse]

Heard back from the machine shop.
Cam is damaged at the broken rocker lobe.
They recommend replace cam and all rockers.
They are working up pricing for stock parts.

If I wanted to upgrade what would be the recommendation?

[Poorhouse]

All good points. This is how quick projects snowball.. going to discuss with mechanic friend and machine shop that has head.

A local?! Nice! I've been here about 20 years, grew up by Red Lodge.

It's a Powder Friday here. I have the day off and was going to work on the car...

Deep thoughts by Rhyan*:
6:00 a.m. Report: Powder Alert! The village has received 9 inches in the last 24 hours! The summit stake received only 4 inches, likely due to wind transport. Protected and lower areas will be harboring more snow. The temperature in the village 16 degrees, higher than the forecasted high temp, which could explain the sudden bump in snowfall totals. The snow is super light and dry. It remains cold on the summit, and we're expecting another 4-8 inches of snow during the day. It's going to be a good one!

[SkiFree]

I understand the hesitation to really go through it, but nothing will kill your confidence faster than putting a worn motor back together and finding the next weak link in the chain the hardware. You've got this, a rough bore check isn't too difficult, just a little time and patience. Same goes for a hone and fresh rings.

Based off of the coloration visible on that bottom end, you are probably going to find worn main and rod bearings. The pan has also been broke before, based off of the oil pump dings. The machinist can do an inspection and micro polish on the crank for not too much money. You'd be out bearings, rod bolts, rod bearings, and polish costs for a LOT more peace of mind.

Just food for thought. Best of luck, you are only a few small steps away from a lot more peace of mind. This is NOT outside your wheel house if you've already come this far.

Also, you are lucky to be up in Whitefish! I was raised up there and want to return. Can't wait to get my family out of California.

[Poorhouse]

Pulled the oil pan last night.

[Poorhouse]

In my point of view it's almost criminal to not stroke it with 2.8 crankshaft when it's opened :). But if internals are not familiar to you, I understand.

Depends on budget I guess and long term plans, should check pistons and bores just get machine shop to do it based on that there may be decisions. Also cleaned, new bearings and that kind of thing.

It's about 2k extra to get a 2.8l as you need
- Crank
- Pistons
- Sleeve
- Additional machine work

Which makes probably only makes sense if the piston are not salvagable

If you have no long term plans for the engine and you know it runs well then you can let sleeping dogs lie sometimes

I would love a 2.8, maybe in phase 2.


This car sat for 9 years. I don't have the confidence in it to spend any real money yet.


Phase 1 is getting it running with the 5speed swap and back on the road. Then I can get it fully sorted and decide where to take it from there.

Did you compression test it before you removed it? Have you got any idea on the condition of the rings? If you have no idea it would be annoying to do the top end and put it all together then realise the rings aren't great.

I did do a compression test.


Results were 130-150 cold.


I thought that was pretty good considering how long it sat and a cold engine.


Looking at the cylinder walls I'm not seeing anything scary.

[e30davie]

Did you compression test it before you removed it? Have you got any idea on the condition of the rings? If you have no idea it would be annoying to do the top end and put it all together then realise the rings aren't great.