So I changed out the head gasket, water pump, valve job, timing belt etc all the things you ought to do when you do a head gasket, including cleaning the old gasket material off the block (I had a machine shop take care of the head).
I was worried about debris getting into my oil so i flushed the engine as best as I could while the head was off with some clean oil.
Slapped the head back on with new head bolts to spec, put it all back together and she started right up, although a bit rough. I checked for vacuum leaks and i think i've got that sorted.
But, my oil pressure light stays on after the engine is started. Its a 325iX so the steering rack is right in the way of the oil pressure switch. Which I didn't remove while i was taking off belts and what not. I'm using 20W30. I hear heavier oil might be better.
How likely is it that the oil pump is clogged? :( Is there a better way to test the oil pressure switch with an ohm meter? I know its a 22 mm and it involves unbolting the engine mounts and loosening the sub frame. All of which seems pretty dangerous.
I was worried about debris getting into my oil so i flushed the engine as best as I could while the head was off with some clean oil.
Slapped the head back on with new head bolts to spec, put it all back together and she started right up, although a bit rough. I checked for vacuum leaks and i think i've got that sorted.
But, my oil pressure light stays on after the engine is started. Its a 325iX so the steering rack is right in the way of the oil pressure switch. Which I didn't remove while i was taking off belts and what not. I'm using 20W30. I hear heavier oil might be better.
How likely is it that the oil pump is clogged? :( Is there a better way to test the oil pressure switch with an ohm meter? I know its a 22 mm and it involves unbolting the engine mounts and loosening the sub frame. All of which seems pretty dangerous.
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