IE 272 Camshaft

[Kobe Diesel]

Are over-sized eccentrics needed for use with this camshaft, or is stock size sufficient?

[euroshark]

Im guessing stock should be ok... What motor? M30? The 533i had a 272 cam from the factory whereas the 535i was a 260, except in europe where it was a 264 (at least the early cars were for sure).

[Low Level E30]

Stock will be sufficient - but you could always call IE if you have any doubt...

[Kobe Diesel]

for M20...
Cant wait to get this head together and the engine running again.
The Audi gets boring most times.
But a 525i, never

[woodstock]

My IE 272 Camshaft

Hi guys,

I bought an IE 272 reground camshaft, on a new core. I didn't think that I needed oversized eccentrics. Then, my machine shop showed me that I needed them, so I had to order them and wait a few days for them to come in.

When I had the cam installed and adjusted, I installed the head. I used the clay method to measure valve to piston clearance. I found that the valve hit the piston, so I had to make cut reliefs in the pistons.
I think new cores have more lift than used cores since they have no wear yet.

If I had to do it over, I would get the Schrick cam. It has the correct base circle.

Good luck,
G3

[nando]

I keep telling people not to waste money on regrinds, but nobody listens..

[nando]

this diagram isn't perfectly accurate, but it illustrates my point nicely:



at first I got a "new grind" 284 cam from racetep.com. I got the "new grind" as they advertise it as being made from a new blank billet.. but what they really mean is they buy a new stock cam, and grind it down for the new profile. Nothing was mentioned about eccentrics being needed.

when I first opened the package with my supposed non-reground cam, it was very obvious to me that this was not what I wanted. when I put it in, it was impossible to adjust the valves - I had purchased all new eccentrics, but I obviously needed oversized eccentrics to do the job. On top of that, comparing it to the stock cam, it was very obvious that the regrind didn't have much of an advantage if any..

then I got my 284/272 schrick, which is what I wanted and should have bought in the first place.. and when I opened the box, I laughed. the difference between the lobe profiles on the schrick and the racetep cams was enormous. For one, the schrick uses the correct base circle so no oversized eccentrics are needed (which add weight to the valvetrain btw). secondly, even though they both technically have the same duration from open to close, the peak part of the schrick was much much wider than the racetep cam. the overall lift of the schrick was also MUCH bigger.

essentially, the part of the cam profile that really matters is from the point where the valve begins to open to the part where it begins to close (on domestics, this is usually measured at .05" of lift). on the schrick, this duration is a big improvement over stock, and coupled with increased lift you get more airflow (and that's why you bought a cam to begin with, right?). on the regrind, you get pretty much the same lift as stock and the duration from partially opened to partially closed is barely different than stock, and may actually be worse.

also, we haven't even gotten into durability. the stock cam has a really hard specially treated surface that makes it last a LONG time. when you buy a regrind, by the very nature of what it is, that surface is ground away. the regrind company will attempt to reharden the surface, but it's unlikely to be anywhere close to the quality you get from the factory (especially at a cost of around $100). also, the regrind has much less surface area than the stock cam - this serves to wear the cam face even faster.

basically my point is, if you don't want to spend money on a REAL cam, just stick with stock. the stock cam is already pretty agressive and will flow plenty for a stock bottom end. I haven't seen anything from catcams personally, but I believe they are of similar quality to the schrick and are a bit cheaper as well.

[woodstock]

Amen. Nice diagram. I talked to a guy as Crower once. Regrinds try to get more lift and duration by going with the new base circle on one side, and the stock lobe on the other. There is a transition area that switches from base circle to stock lobe. Kind of a hack. They try to get what ever lift they can out of them. If the lobe is worn, they won't get much lift.

Schrick has a completely computer designed lobe profile. That's two votes for the Schrick. Take it from us guys, no regrinds. The extra money for the Schrick is worth it. That's what you wanted to know, if it's worth it.

[digger]

in simple terms consider the lift as well as the duration.

Does anyone have any photos of a regrind? I'd like to see the difference myself.

[Kobe Diesel]

Just to note, Im interested in obtaining the 272 camshaft with new billets, not a regrind of an old.

[nando]

Just to note, Im interested in obtaining the 272 camshaft with new billets, not a regrind of an old.

re-read my post. there is basically no difference between them, they are still both "regrinds" and get you the same net effect. if this is really your only choice, just stick with the stock cam.

[digger]

its pretty hard to notice the difference between the shrick 284/272 and the standard BMW 325e, 325i and alpina c2 2.7 cams that i have lying around without some sort of precision measuring tool even then its still difficult so i'm interested in seeing what a regrind looks like.

[Kobe Diesel]

that's such bullshit how they advertise their 272 on new billets.
thanx for pointing that out, else i'd waste cash unnecesarily.

[Kobe Diesel]

Why does Bavauto charge $600+ for a Schrick cam and Turner $424 for the same? WTF is this?

[nando]

no idea. if they are both the same cam go for the cheaper one. I think I paid about $600 for mine though so that doesn't sound too far off. I got mine from IE because nobody else had any in stock..