I dont get why a smooth idle is good for a DD ? I can understand emissions, but thats the only reason I can come up with.
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how much power from 2.9 stroker?
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Originally posted by SA E30 View PostI dont get why a smooth idle is good for a DD ? I can understand emissions, but thats the only reason I can come up with.
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Originally posted by SA E30 View PostI hope u not coming to pick on me :P
but, I would like to see what a 2.9lt with similar specs to what your 3.1lt would do compared to the 3.1 ... only time will tell :D
Are you hinting at an all-out 2.9 NA M20 for your track car ? With throttle bodies - will be interesting to see how you solve the problems involved with that setup.
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3.6 liter M30 strokers can make ~90hp/liter if they are built pretty hot. You'd have to have megasquirt or at least tripple carbs (or a cool ITB setup) to achieve 100hp/liter from an M20 or M30 I bet.
I recall seeing one 3.6 liter M30 running 11:1 compression, very kick ass headers, tripple Weber 45 DCOEs and like a 300 degree cam making about 330rwhp.'88 528e /// '88 M5 /// '89 951 /// '98 E430 /// '02 M5
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Originally posted by Andreas View PostI will pick on every single NA E30 that I can find and hopefully even some turbo guys. I will especially look for your Budler built 2.9 liter :)
Are you hinting at an all-out 2.9 NA M20 for your track car ? With throttle bodies - will be interesting to see how you solve the problems involved with that setup.
Do you guys have a source for billet cranks?
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Originally posted by winstontj View PostWhat problems? Do you mean the brake booster & fittment issues of the ITB's? I'd love to build a 3.0L motor but dont know where to get the crank from.
Do you guys have a source for billet cranks?
Another option would be to convert to hydraulic brakes like on the very old 7 series BMWs. You'd have to make up some brackets (similar to power steering) to mount the pump.
Another option, and the one that I am using, is to install competition brake master cylinders that do not need a brake booster. Supposedly they give you much better feedback when you apply brakes. Tilton and AP Racing are two companies where you can obtain this.
Although I haven't confirmed it yet, the thermostat housing may be a bit difficult to work around. It depends on your design I suppose. Most guys build the manifold to let the air come to the head at 90 degrees. I prefer to mount the ITBs so that air goes straight into the port - about 30 deg.
When building your own manifold, also consider the oil return from cylinder head to bottom of the block.
328i cranks can be found used without too much difficulty. I bought a forged steel one for R6,500 (incl. machining work for front pulley). The 330i cranks are very difficult to obtain and I bought mine at the BMW dealer brand new for R11,500 (E46 330i with 89.6mm stroke ; the E90 330i crank has less stroke and the chain sprocket is mounted elsewhere - don't buy this one).
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Originally posted by winstontj View PostWhat problems? Do you mean the brake booster & fittment issues of the ITB's? I'd love to build a 3.0L motor but dont know where to get the crank from.
Do you guys have a source for billet cranks?seien Sie größer, als Sie erscheinen
Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
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Standalone
Originally posted by Hadrian View PostMy manifold is made up of the first few inches of the stock manifold so it still has the oil return thingy.
You guys are lucky you don't have vacuum dependant distributors.
IMO you can't really make decent power unless you run standalone. Once you start adding cam, bumping CR up and adding other high perf. mods you really need standalone to get the power up close to 100hp/liter
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I have an E21. It comes with CIS, not EFI. The manifold is made up of part of an E30 323i manifold which has L-jetronic, not Motronic. I will be using Dellorto carburettors (better than Webber DCOE IMO).
I'll be using the standard E21 323i distributor which uses vacuum ot controll advance and retard.
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Originally posted by winstontj View PostIMO you can't really make decent power unless you run standalone. Once you start adding cam, bumping CR up and adding other high perf. mods you really need standalone to get the power up close to 100hp/liter
Depends what you mean by decent but given that you won't get 100hp/L from a NA M20 unless its a M20B20 (i.e. small displacment but with the same head that a 2.7L-3.1L stroker uses) i would disagree about standalone. For NA full standalone is not a must, a 3L can make >200whp using a plug in chip for motronic, AFM, standard intake manifold and standard airbox (obviously more possible) and i would say that 200whp is more than decent when on road performance is looked at.89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
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