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1.3 Motronic Up-Grade & 2.7i How To

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  • rcfanatic
    replied
    Is it possible that an '89 harness is mismatched for a 173 ECU?

    Edit: All 55 pins are sending power/signal to the ECU
    Last edited by rcfanatic; 04-16-2009, 02:07 PM.

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  • rcfanatic
    replied
    Sorry, the engine harness is an '89.

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  • mooseheadm5
    replied
    86 325 wiring harness with 1.3? The plugs are different, aren't they?
    Wait, now I get it, the body harness is from your car. What I am asking is what year is your engine harness?

    Leave a comment:


  • rcfanatic
    replied
    Half of the input pins are getting power, we still need to check the rest. The ECU is a 173, and the harness is the original from my 1986 325. It is the round plug, so we didn't have to do any splicing. I guess I need to find the appropriate wiring diagram. Essentially I need to know which pin(s) aside from the green wire would cause the Check light not to come on.. and no spark or fuel to be delivered

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  • mooseheadm5
    replied
    If the check light on your dash is not blinking any more, you are missing power to something, and that could be your problem. You will need to find a wiring diagram to see what you are missing.
    Another possibility is that you do not have the green wire on the connector next to the ECU plugged in properly. What year is the harness you purchased?

    Leave a comment:


  • rcfanatic
    replied
    Does anyone know why I am not getting a check light? Would it be a problem at the harness or could it be that the ECU is shot? How would you go about testing it if you didn't have an extra ECU to swap in?

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  • rcfanatic
    replied
    Hello,

    I swapped the following items on my '86 325 because Summer is coming up, and for some reason in very hot weather, the engine would randomly stall (normally when idling)

    AFM
    TPS
    FPR
    thermostat housing with all sensors (only 2)
    crank position sensor with reluctor wheel (front crank pulley)
    spark plug wires for the pick-up on wire #6
    injectors
    ICV
    173 ECU

    The problem I am having now is that I get no spark or fuel injection. Another thing I noticed is that the check light does not blink anymore (or come on at all for that matter). Any suggestions on where I should start for locating the problem?


    Thanks,
    Adam
    Last edited by rcfanatic; 04-10-2009, 02:58 PM.

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  • Brian 89 325i
    replied
    Would it benefit me much if I were to get an ecu with a DINAN chip on a eta motor with MOT 1.3? Would I loose on the low end? Would it be worth it?

    Brian

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  • mikegar
    replied
    Originally posted by rcfanatic View Post
    Don't be a prick. Only my last question could be answered by searching. Don't bother posting if you're just going to bitch.
    dont bitch? i was only letting you know so you wont get reamed by other members. ive been on here since 2005 and ive seen this topic coverd so many times. all your questions could have been answered by searching. if youre not so much into being "bitched" at id suggest going to e30tech.com. its a much more noob friendly place.
    Last edited by mikegar; 03-20-2009, 09:30 PM. Reason: i was drunk

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  • charlieboy
    replied
    Originally posted by kenika65 View Post
    damn ive been gone a while soooo the 153 ecu has idle issues so dont use it unless it works for you.

    Yes you have to swap all of these parts at once, it is to accommodate for the different wiring harness which doesn't have flywheel sensors or even connections for it.

    To make this CLEAR you practically have to strip the eta down to this.

    And then strip an i car down and replace all the eta parts you took off with i parts.
    And come up with this.

    That easy.

    Can i just get a chip for the 153 ecu?

    Leave a comment:


  • dager325
    replied
    Just a few questions:

    I have and 1987 325. I want to swap to a i intake mani, i throttle body, with i head, i 173 ecu, 1.3 Motronic Harness and sensors, and i dual exhaust. Do I still need the i afm, i fpr, i pulleys, i belts, i thermosat housing, and i plug wires, and what head gasket set should I use? Can I use the my rods as well or do I need i rods?

    Would I have to mill the head down at all?

    I know I will need that fues and the tach, but do I still need all that?

    And how much more hp would that give her, and around how much would all this cost??

    How much differnece in hp would putting seta pistons in make???

    I know this is a lot of questions, and I was reading most of these post and I just want to get everything set before I start, because my car isn't currently running( http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=131646) and want to give her a little more power.

    Please help out as much as you can.

    Thanks.
    Last edited by dager325; 03-18-2009, 08:19 PM.

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  • kenika65
    replied
    damn ive been gone a while soooo the 153 ecu has idle issues so dont use it unless it works for you.

    Yes you have to swap all of these parts at once, it is to accommodate for the different wiring harness which doesn't have flywheel sensors or even connections for it.

    To make this CLEAR you practically have to strip the eta down to this.

    And then strip an i car down and replace all the eta parts you took off with i parts.
    And come up with this.

    That easy.
    Last edited by kenika65; 03-17-2009, 09:07 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • charlieboy
    replied
    ecu question

    i'm building a 327i project and i have a #153 ecu, my question is will the #153 ecu will work on the 2.7i?

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  • rcfanatic
    replied
    Don't be a prick. Only my last question could be answered by searching. Don't bother posting if you're just going to bitch.

    Leave a comment:


  • mikegar
    replied
    Originally posted by rcfanatic View Post
    Hey guys,
    I have a few questions about the list of necessary parts that Kenika65/EtaSport acquired.

    1.) Did you switch out all of these parts at once, or one at a time? If you didn't do them one at a time how do you know which ones are necessary?

    2.) Do you know why the 173 ecu cannot take the signal from the older (rear) crank position sensors?

    3.) What is it about the i injectors that make them necessary? Are they of a different resistance?

    Thanks!
    1.) there are specific parts that are diff between the i and eta, they took all the good parts from the i and put them on the eta, it is your job to figure out what parts are necessary by SEARCHING

    2.) the crank position sensors on the i and eta are completely different.

    3.) i injectors are necessary because they are a different impedance, but while your replacing injectors you could go with a higher flow injectors such as mustang injectors.

    4.) a lot of your questions can be answered by using the search function.

    Leave a comment:

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