1.3 Motronic Up-Grade & 2.7i How To

[EtaSport]

if you swap to motronic 1.3, there will be no crank sensor on the flywheel, you can use it. It would be wise to cover up the holes in the transmission where the two sensors go though.

[Jand3rson]

You do not need to swap all of the parts listed in the first post. The coils are universal, (im still using my original fuel pumps even with my m50), the exhaust manifolds are almost identical. The only things you really need are:
AFM
TPS
FPR
thermostat housing with all sensors (only 2)
crank position sensor with reluctor wheel (front crank pulley)
spark plug wires for the pick-up on wire #6
injectors
ICV
and thats about it if i remember.

This list just about covers the rest of what I'll need too, right? He had a 325es, so I'm safe using the dual fuel pumps, since he said he's still using his.

My other question is about the flywheel. I won't know for sure until I pull it apart, but I'm 99% sure that my car has an early single mass, unlike most etas that had the dual mass. If that's the case, can I use it? Or with the little sensor doo-dad on the eta flywheel interfere with it's running in the motor?

[nando]

I hate to ask and look like I didn't read at all, but there's too much information for too many different engines in this thread.

I'm getting the bottom end of a 20k (yes, 20,000 mile) eta, and a 325i intake manifold and throttle body from a buddy of mine for parting out his car. I want to do the 2.7i using the eta bottom end, super eta pistons, and a 325i head. Is the combination of those 3 the correct way to go for doing a good NA 2.7i? Do I use the stock eta rods with the super eta pistons? Also, I'll be using the Motronic 1.3 ECU and harness.

yes, and yes. seta and eta rods are the same thing.

[Jand3rson]

I hate to ask and look like I didn't read at all, but there's too much information for too many different engines in this thread.

I'm getting the bottom end of a 20k (yes, 20,000 mile) eta, and a 325i intake manifold and throttle body from a buddy of mine for parting out his car. I want to do the 2.7i using the eta bottom end, super eta pistons, and a 325i head. Is the combination of those 3 the correct way to go for doing a good NA 2.7i? Do I use the stock eta rods with the super eta pistons? Also, I'll be using the Motronic 1.3 ECU and harness.

[kenika65]

http://www.bmwccn.no/rogaland/Mahle_m20.html

Read this!

The e crank is a 2.7 crank the i rods are 2.5 rods the super eta pistons match the i head but if you mix this combo the super eta pistons will come out of the block and possibly hit the head or a valve.

So the only way to use i rods is to have custom pistons, which is why I am suggesting getting a super eta bottom end and you will be happy.

[-limp-]

sorry i was a bit low on sleep more what i was asking was e crank i rods and super eta pistons does that not clear or something because you havent mentioned that combo

[kenika65]

In your situation you would want e crank e rods and 88 super eta pistons, or e crank i rods and custom pistons. The only reason you would want early eta flat top pistons is if you need low compression for turbo. The i rods are better because they are longer and will make you rev faster.

[-limp-]

wooops missed something there but couldnt i just get ahold of an e crank and the super eta pistons would the i rods work out alright? at the beginning you said to use e rods

[-limp-]

ok so i have an 89 i ....which means i have all the electronics and such plus the i exhaust...if im reading this right i could pretty much just throw a late e bottom end in my car yes? which would give me lower compression but much better low end...is that right?

[nando]

if the bearings are okay the cam should still be good. look for wear on the cam lobes -if there's a big ridge where the face of the rocker rides the cam, it's toast.

[smoke4ndmears]

i wish. the yard i'm using is finding it funny how much i've pulled of this 325. So another ? about the cam. The donor cylinder head seems to have had a cracked cam journal (or whatever you call the upper portion of the arch that covers the cam bearing) that was welded back together at some point. Cam looks good though, what do you guys think? If I pull this one I could persuad them not to charge for the head due to the damage.

[EtaSport]

It should just fall off.

word.

[kenika65]

Try rubber,plastic hammer or a piece of wood, tap it off slowly and evenly. When you put it on let the bolts press it on.

Yes there are pullers you can buy but the radiator must be removed in some cases.

It should just fall off.

http://ee1394.com/bmw/docs/factory/repair/en/index1.htm

[smoke4ndmears]

kenika/etasport how did you guys remove the crank pulley? any special tools required?

[kenika65]

This is a list or what I put on my 86es from my 89i parts car

http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39960

complete 1.1/1.3 motronic harness, ecu #173, stock i chip, oxygen sensor, oil sensor's, temperature sensor's, crankshaft position sensor and bracket, relay's, AFM (air fuel module), fuel rail
i intake, air intake hose, injectors, throttle body, (hoses that are connected)
i duel exhaust, single fuel pump fuel tank, fuel pump, metal fuel lines(for different in length)
thermostat housing(for having only 2 electrical connections)
timing chain covers(to work with crankshaft position sensor wire)
valve cover (hose connected)
harmonic balancer(for crankshaft position sensor)
7000 tach
90amp alternator