Long cranking.

[Groove_D]

I know how to check for the spark man but thanks maybe someone else didn't know. I work on japanese cars. I just thought that someone might had similar issues that i have so i don't have to trace this ongoing problem forever. The thing is that the spark could not be strong enough to ignite the mixture even though you can still see it. You can even see the spark yourself by looking through the windshield while cranking you don't need anyone there. I should just check the primary and secondary coils for resistance and see if it's within the spec.

The problem happens when the engine is hot or cold. If you just start it when it's cold and turn it off in about 10 minutes it might not restart after. The other day it wouldn't restart right away. Yesterday it happened when the engine was completely warmed up. I got off the highway, went into the store for 3 mins and it happened again.

[DCColegrove]

Check the fuel pressure and check the pressure regulator vacuum line (is it wet... fuel?).

Aside from this just down to the basics first, check the battery voltage while cranking... if it drops below 9.6 volt while cranking it's toast.

Inspect all the DME system electrical connections...are they clean and tight? especially the one below the manifold (just above and to the front of the starter...round mil spec type).

Another little known pattern failure on these is the AFM can stick...look for scraping in the housing from the "door".

Let me know what you find.

Daniel

[Groove_D]

I just replaced the battery as i described in my frist post. It died on me while cranking and i wasn't able to recharge it. So the battery is brand new.
I'll check the fuel pressure sometime this week. What is the correct spec for it?
30 psi?
I cleanede the throttle body few weeks ago and the inlet to the afm as well.
Didn't see any obstructions there.

[kenika65]

It is spark or fuel!

Have you checked the fuse in the trunk about 6in from the battery it is heat shrinked on the small power wire?

[Groove_D]

No i haven't checked it. What about that fuse?

[E30Eric]

Mine acts exactly the same. If I kill it when it's cold it will crank forever. I pulled the plugs, soaked in gas. It's the coolant temp sensor. Mine read -49 degrees :p on my fiends diagnostic scanner. It threw the coolant temp sensor code also. I'm changing mine today. I hope it fixes the problem! I'll let you know what happens. Right now the car just runs in cold start mode the whole time you drive the car, so it runs like shit.

-Eric

[E30Eric]

I fixed my car! The problem turned out to be corroded pins on the fuel injector/coolant temp sensor harness. Both of the pins for the coolant temp sensor were black, the other fuel injector pins looked ok though, weird. I checked for continuity on both of them before doing anything, and there were no electrons getting through that corrosion. I filled the pins a bit, cleaned everything with a q tip and some isopropyl alcohol and put some dielectric grease on to prevent future corrosion. Tested for continuity again and both wires were passing electrons again . It is a night and day difference in how the car runs. I've been running in cold start mode the entire time after I built my 2.7i, this also fixed the long cranking if one kills the motor in the morning.

-Eric

[Groove_D]

Are you talking about the coolant temp sensor with the blue plug on the thermostat housing? I was checking mine for continuity when the car was cold and warm but i didn't have any specs for it.
So you just cleaned the pins on the sensor or the pins on the harness?

[buguhrich]

I'm having the exact same problem. Gotta crank it about 4 or 5 times, 30 seconds each just to get it started. I'm checking the return line for the fuel tomorrow and checking the pressure at the inlet. I have a feeling its a fuel pressure issue. Brand new FPR so I know its not that. I'm looking into getting a new Walbro pump but don't feel like dropping $100 on something I might not need. I'll keep you posted on what happens.

In the mean time, check your return line. Its simply a matter of getting your car started then clamping the return line shut with some pliers and if you notice a difference in the way it runs, you know its not clogged.