My 2.7i Build

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  • kenika65
    replied
    You are asking these questions in the wrong section try the turbo section if you haven't already!!!

    And are you located down south ATX?

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  • akorcovelos
    replied
    o-ring, best thing you could do for FI.

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  • backtrail69
    replied
    O-ring. No question in my mind.

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  • Jordan325iC
    replied
    Unfortunately the "welding the head" boat has already sailed, since the head is already getting milled at the machine shop. The block is at another performance machine shop, but they haven't started work on it yet. $150 to o-ring compared to ~$200 for an MLS gasket. I am seriously losing sleep over this issue.

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  • backtrail69
    replied
    At the very least MLS and welded head, the problem is the coolant channels and the tight cylinder spacing, the symptom is blown HGs.

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  • Jordan325iC
    replied
    So I have talked to two shops today, both recommended to me from other sources. They both have suggested that MLS gaskets were a better alternative to o-ringing. At this point I am torn. Every e-warrior on this site says that o-ringing and stock gasket is the way to go, whereas every professional shop in my area I talk to says MLS gaskets are better than o-rings. I am very torn, and I have till tomorrow to make my decision.

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  • SpecM
    replied
    Originally posted by Dyno4mance
    Why would you use a 2.5 block? the 2.7 block is the same although it has much better 360 degree oiling on the mains
    -Same block!

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  • backtrail69
    replied
    My take on the situation form another boostoholic... I would O-ring the block and run a stock HG with ARP studs. If there is anyway to have the head welded, get it done. I regret not o-ringing. I am just running a MLS with a welded head so far, so good. I hope all is well for a long time. Replace the oil pump while you are in there if you can afford it. What EMS are you running? You should really figure out WHY the HG blew not... overbuilding the engine to compensate for a problem somewhere else. My take on the situation was overbuilding the engine AND getting spot on tuning, trying to go for reliability. So far I have 2k hard miles on my motor and its working great.

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  • Jordan325iC
    replied
    Originally posted by Dyno4mance
    Why would you use a 2.5 block? the 2.7 block is the same although it has much better 360 degree oiling on the mains
    I would take the s eta block to the machine shop and have it hot tanked to see if it can be salvaged....it would have to be pretty far gone rust wise to be scrap!
    This "budget" build has already spiraled way out of control, so I try to reduce costs wherever I can. I don't think the benefits of the S-ETA block are worth the cost of saving that old block.

    Plus, this car has gone 260k with the same block and it is still in great condition. Call me sentimental, but I don't want to separate the two.

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  • Dyno4mance
    replied
    Why would you use a 2.5 block? the 2.7 block is the same although it has much better 360 degree oiling on the mains
    I would take the s eta block to the machine shop and have it hot tanked to see if it can be salvaged....it would have to be pretty far gone rust wise to be scrap!

    Leave a comment:


  • Jordan325iC
    replied
    Update, well I've been talking to some local shops. K&K welding and Precision Engine. I am trying to decide between o-ringing the block or welding the head. I will save some money by not going with an MLS gasket.

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  • Jordan325iC
    replied
    Originally posted by kenika65
    They are im just saying to do it so that when or if your timing belt breaks you have nothing to worry about! It is good insurance.

    I was saying instead of spending money on surfacing the block.
    Ah, ok. I think I have to re-surface the block to get it within a certain "smoothness" as required by the MLS gasket.

    BTW, cool to see another local person.

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  • kenika65
    replied
    They are im just saying to do it so that when or if your timing belt breaks you have nothing to worry about! It is good insurance.

    I was saying instead of spending money on surfacing the block.

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  • SpecM
    replied
    Originally posted by Jordan325iC
    Is that really necessary? I was under the impression that s-eta 2.7 internals were "drop in" to the 2.5 block.
    -They are...

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  • Jordan325iC
    replied
    Originally posted by kenika65
    Get valve reliefs cut in to the seta pistons to prevent piston to valve contact instead of surfacing the block.
    Is that really necessary? I was under the impression that s-eta 2.7 internals were "drop in" to the 2.5 block.

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