Car starts Hits 1k rpm and dies...I did search

[Burnall4]

So i just rebuilt my engine put it back in everything plugged back up and then I go to start the car and it starts up for 2 secs hits about 1000 rpm and dies...

here is what I have checked

Idle control bypass valve
MAF
Fuel Pressure
Timing
etc...

Anythoughts?


Burn

[Burnall4]

So here is what I have figured out...

1. I put the car back down on all 4 wheels/tires
2. Started it one last time
3. It ran, but sounded like SHIT
4. Checked the spark plug/wires/etc...
5. Noticed the MAF plug was not plugged in
6. Plugged the MAF sensor back in
7. Car cuts off instantanously


So I am making an assumption that it is the MAF that has gone bad?

[dark89e30]

throttle position switch bad/ not adjusted properly?

[Burnall4]

could the timing have anything to do with it? it backfires when i leave the MAF unplugged and let it idle, i mean the car makes a poping noise, the engine shakes, and sounds like crap...?

[jmc1590]

Timing is complete controlled by the ECU and therefore non-adjustable. I assume you mean AFM not MAF. The start and dies sounds like a similar problem when I forgot to connect my AFM after working on the alternator. Perhaps "resetting" the ECU by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes.

If indeed you do have a MAF, please extrapolate on what other changes you have done.

[Burnall4]

Sorry I have an AFM, not a MAF (force of habit)

My ICV is constantly buzzing is it suppose to be doing that?

[Burnall4]

Well I got a friend's spare 325i ECU and tried that and it did the same thing....

[jmc1590]

Vacuum leak(s)? Also check from the AFM to the throttle body to make sure you're not drawing in unmetered air. (Torn intake boot, disconnected idle air line...)

[Jon325i]

Well I got a friend's spare 325i ECU and tried that and it did the same thing....

Does your friend have a spare AFM? If he does you might want to swap it with yours and see if things improve. I've had two AFMs fail on me before and the symptoms were similar to yours.....either just engine stall or run very very poorly. Sometimes the fix is just a matter of cleaning up internal passages since all kinds of neat gunk can build up in there - others times they just fail altogether and you go find a replacement. Should you elect to try the cleaning approach first, use CRC brand MAF cleaner (Kragen and AutoZone carry it).

Jon

[DCColegrove]

Is the MIL (check engine light) on?

[Burnall4]

Is the MIL (check engine light) on?

no :???:

[dark89e30]

My ICV is constantly buzzing is it suppose to be doing that?

Throw it in the trash, and good things will happen

[Burnall4]

After all this time I have finally figured it out...it was the timing, electrical....now to fix it....FAWK!

[SpecM]

After all this time I have finally figured it out...it was the timing, electrical....now to fix it....FAWK!

-what was the problem? CPS?

[Burnall4]

yeah was the CPS and it was the throttle position switch along with the ICV, the ICV was buzzing so bad bec the TPS wasn't working...(i am assuming on that end) but i switched it for a known working combo, fired right up, "shrugs" even the valve ticking is gone...haha I will know more after I pull the engine out again. I am going to re-do the timing belt and re route some of the wires. It looks like the CPS was running behind the pulley, it was almost down to the copper (went through the black shrink wrap and the coating on the wire itself). Mind you, it was not like this before so it was my mistake when putting it back together...i will keep you guys updated!