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    Crankbolt removal help

    when removing the crank bolt, do you losen like a regular nut, or is it reverse tread?

    #2
    regular. good luck
    90 E30 325i

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      #3
      Is the engine in or out? If it is out, you either need a special tool to hold the crank or you need to wedge something relatively soft between the case and the crankshaft to keep it from spinning. Then get a long cheater bar and go to town.
      1987 E30 325is
      1999 E46 323i
      RIP 1994 E32 740iL
      oo=[][]=oo

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        #4
        I probably shouldn't tell you this because it's fucking dangerous...

        The way I do it all the time:

        All the shit off the front of the engine EXCEPT FOR THE TIMMING BELT on an m20 don't be stupid.

        Long 1/2 breaker bar at about 4 0'clock (looking at the front) car on the ground...

        Crank the starter... The bar whacks the ground and busts the bolt loose.

        When it's out of the car I use an impact gun.

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          #5
          I've tried that method (several times), it didn't work and it's somewhat dangerous. a pipe wrench on the hub the VR wheel bolts to and a good cheater pipe worked best for me. off the car, I had a couple buddies stand on my engine stand with a block of wood jammed in the crank while I stood on it with a breaker bar. but really an impact gun is the best way.
          Build thread

          Bimmerlabs

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            #6
            Originally posted by DCColegrove View Post
            I probably shouldn't tell you this because it's fucking dangerous...

            The way I do it all the time:

            All the shit off the front of the engine EXCEPT FOR THE TIMMING BELT on an m20 don't be stupid.

            Long 1/2 breaker bar at about 4 0'clock (looking at the front) car on the ground...

            Crank the starter... The bar whacks the ground and busts the bolt loose.

            When it's out of the car I use an impact gun.
            That sounds really focking dangerous. I would try PB Blaster and an air gun before that....

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              #7
              The crank bolt is why I just bought these:

              [IMG]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z.com-vbulletin/550x225/80-parkerbsig_5096690e71d912ec1addc4a84e99c374685fc03 8.jpg[/IMG

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                #8
                Ingersol Rand ftw. I need a new compressor.

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                  #9
                  Okay so the bolt is out, I hit it with the snap-on gun, along with a crank holding tool. about 15 sec on the piece, it came off.

                  Now the next question. I'm trying to remove everythign from the front, how do I remove the oil pump pulley bolt without it from spinning around?

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by thereisnoyun View Post
                    Okay so the bolt is out, I hit it with the snap-on gun, along with a crank holding tool. about 15 sec on the piece, it came off.

                    Now the next question. I'm trying to remove everythign from the front, how do I remove the oil pump pulley bolt without it from spinning around?
                    I use the old timing belt on the pulley to hold it stationary, vise grips on the belt and it works perfectly. That bolt is much less resistant.
                    Keith

                    "Die feine Art, schnell zu sein."
                    "I don't have a gambling problem, my gambling pays for my e30 addiction."

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                      #11
                      my block is bare and naked. Everything looks really good, the cylinder looks very clean. Thanks for everyone that helped out. I was hesitant to keep hitting it, but brute force saves the day.

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                        #12
                        crank bolt

                        I just did the T/belt /all seals on my 91' Ix last week and found the Hardest crankbolt I've ever had to remove! I was a Volvo tech and a shop owner for many years but this was the hardest. I used a Special Tool to hold crank and used a breaker bar With a Floor Jack Handle as an extention (5') and load torqued the handle against the hood lock (right Corner) and locked it in . I used heat two time, and two Days later it finally came loose . Someone used Red locktight and their biggest Snap-on Gun and a good Laugh when it got installed last time. As for using a breaker bar against the ground or frame and using the starter , It really does work sweet , I could have used that method but I forgot. Joe
                        Last edited by Bmjpv; 02-18-2009, 07:07 AM.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by nando View Post
                          I've tried that method (several times), it didn't work and it's somewhat dangerous....
                          Probably should mention that the breaker bar I use is a Snap-on 36" 1/2 drive...

                          Very solid toy.

                          And yes... Not a safe trick.

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